Pasta. Just saying the word evokes images of red checkered tablecloths and wine bottle candles. There is nothing that sums up the very essence of Italian cooking like pasta. It's a simple yet versatile food that has the added appeal of being nutritious as well as delicious. This despite a recently acquired and completely unjustified bad reputation from the "carb crazy" crowd. But that's another article.

Pasta as a main dish is a relatively new concept. "Il primo," the pasta course, has always been a staple in southern Italian cuisine, where it fits neatly in between the "antipasto" and the "secondo," the former being the appetizer course and the latter being the traditional main course of meat, poultry or fish. Conventionally, pasta does not constitute a meal on its own.

But, American influences have set many European conventions on their ears and so it is with pasta as a main course. Consider the number of contemporary households that serve up a plate of spaghetti, accompanied perhaps by a salad, some bread and a beverage. How many churches and civic organizations throw big "spaghetti suppers" on a regular basis? And the trend continues to restaurants where pasta is likely as not to be offered as a main course.

And that's okay. By its very nature pasta is versatile enough to handle the job. Simple but filling pasta dishes can be thrown together quickly by busy cooks on a tight time budget or more elaborate creations can be prepared by those with the time to do so. Pasta can be put in a simple soup or a hearty ragu. Slip a little chicken into some Fettuccine Alfredo and you've got a nice light meal. A good lasagna can certainly be a meal by itself. And, of course, as previously mentioned, spaghetti served up in a nice marinara or meat sauce with a little salad and garlic bread on the side is the perfect family supper. I know Billy Joel was referring to wine when he sang, "It all depends upon your appetite," but the same can be sung of pasta. Boiled or baked, plain or fancy, it's the ultimate main dish.

Here are a few recipes to illustrate my point:

SPAGHETTI CON AGLIO E OLIO
(Spaghetti with garlic and oil)
Quick, simple and satisfying, this dish is very popular throughout Italy. Make sure you use the best quality oil for the best taste.

1 lb spaghetti
6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
3 cloves garlic, chopped
4 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese, to serve (optional)

Cook the

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