If you love fried rice with your Chinese take-out, you're probably someone who ends up with a couple of untouched pints of white rice among your leftovers. Hold onto them: they're perfect for making even better fried rice the next day.

For the simplest homemade fried rice you'll need two teaspoons of vegetable oil; one cup of that cold, leftover rice; one egg lightly beaten; one tablespoon soy sauce; and some salt to taste. Although this will give you a small amount, start with these proportions to get a feel for it. You can increase the amounts the next time you make it, and even add more ingredients as suggested below.

The first and most important rule in making fried rice is to forget what you know. Fried rice from typical Chinese restaurants bears only a passing resemblance to what you'll be creating, so resist the urge to compare the two. Rest assured that homemade fried rice has a rich and direct flavor, is lighter and more tender in texture, and has much less fat.

Rule number two is about getting the heat right. Although stir-frying in a wok is done at very high temperatures, medium-high heat is hot enough for the large, nonstick frying pan you'll be using here. A wok is designed for high heat; a frying pan at the same temperature will incinerate your rice in a matter of seconds. With that in mind, place the frying pan over medium-high heat and add the oil. After a minute, add a drop of water. If it sizzles, the pan is hot enough. Don't let the oil smoke, thoughthat's wok-style cooking.

Rule number three is, the colder the better. Cold rice will give you the best texturefluffy, individual grains that are, at the same time, pleasantly sticky. Ideally, the rice should stay in the refrigerator until the pan is almost ready. Since the rice will be stuck in a clump, rub it lightly between your hands to separate the grains as you add it to the pan in an even layer. Don't worry if it looks like the grains are sticking together again; all will be well.

Control thyself is the fourth rule. Many people find it hard to leave the rice alone once it's in the pan. The rice is so cold, however, it's in no immediate danger of burning. Restrain yourself from pushing the rice around to give it a chance to get hot. As the rice heats, it will soften and begin to develop the light, chewy texture you're aiming forif you agitate it too much, it won't ever get there. After about a minute, you can start pushing, turning and tossing itwhatever you'd like. When

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