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Mussels cooked in white wine with garlic and parsley is a simple peasant dish that has sprung to international fame as 'moules mariniere'. Born in the channel ports of north-west France, it spread rapidly throughout that country, up into Belgium where it is practically a national dish and on through the rest of Europe.

Variations of it are now served just about anywhere that mussels are available, and there are even restaurants devoted to little else. New ingredients, such as cream and brandy, have been added, but the simple classic dish is probably still the best. It is certainly the easiest and is completely foolproof.

This is what you need for four people:

2 kilo (about 4 pounds) mussels
2 French shallots, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
bunch chopped Italian (flat-leaf) parsley
1 cup good quality dry white wine
1tbs oil or butter

In Australia, and probably elsewhere, sealed packages of cleaned, live mussels are now available, which make the next step redundant. So if that is what you intend to buy, skip all but the last line of the next paragraph.

Carefully scrub the mussels, removing any 'beard' by pulling it clear. Don't worry if a small strip of flesh comes with it, this will not kill the mussel. Discard any mussels with broken shells or ones that fail to close when firmly tapped.

In a large pot with a close fitting lid, saute the shallots and garlic in the oil or butter until just soft, then add the mussels. Scatter over half the parsley and pour in the white wine. Bring to the boil, cover and simmer for five minutes. The mussels will cook in their own steam, releasing more liquor into the mix. This is what makes the 'soup' that the mussels are served in. There is no need to add more liquid.

Divide the remaining parsley between four good sized serving bowls.

At the end of cooking time, discard any mussels that have failed to open and divide the remainder between the bowls, pouring the liquor over the top. Serve with a side dish of frites (thin French fries) or crusty bread.

If you live where they are available, Muscadet or Gros Plant are the traditional wines to both cook this dish and to drink with it. A dry Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc makes a reasonable substitute. In Belgium they drink beer.

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