by Pamela Ashton

Created on: April 02, 2008   Last Updated: November 24, 2008

Snow was sifting from the gray clouds like powdered sugar being sprinkled on a cake. We sat in our car, watching the leaden weather and wishing it would improve before we began our three day ferry ride from Bellingham, Washington to Skagway, Alaska.

Finally it was our turn to drive into the belly of the vessel. We were just one small car in a variety of vehicles ranging from semi-trailers and huge RV's, to fork lifts and motorcycles. With everyone driving those vehicles heading for a different destination, the one thing we shared in common was the journey.

I've traveled on ferries before; however, just for quick trips around the San Juan's off Washington's coast. Those trips usually only lasted for an hour or so at most. The first leg of this trip was 38 hours, from Bellingham to Ketchikan in Southeast Alaska.

Perhaps the most important lesson I learned from this ferry experience, is that it truly isn't the destination that brings the most satisfaction; it is indeed the journey. With less than 200 passengers on board, and a crew of 49, there was ample time to swap stories and get to know one another. There is a camaraderie that develops with amazing speed and depth on board a vessel at sea. It is these interactions with other people that make any journey the most interesting one.

Gina*, one of the purser's, was particularly interesting and forthcoming about the crew members and their lives. Most of them live in the islands of "Southeast," and some grew up together. Hearing their stories gave depth to crew members who often are just shadows in the background. There was the galley worker who has lost two wives in death to breast cancer, who has such a kind and generous heart. There was the room steward who is unable to have children and cares for two little boys whose mother was a drug addict and passed that addiction on to her children. There were similar stories among the passengers.

It was too early in the season to see much wildlife; the porpoises did come and cavort around the ferry for a short while. We did spot a whale, and those that were in the right place at the right time saw the wake of a seal. Even the birds seemed to be hiding away from the water. The inclement weather kept us inside as well, for most of the trip.

With ample opportunity to socialize, we made acquaintance with many interesting people. Jimmie and his beautiful dog Milly, were heading to Talkeetna to "take on the mountain." Milly, along with our dog and a couple dozen others on board, were confined to the car deck, and only allowed out of the cars or carriers at intervals enroute. Jimmie is a climber, and Denali was in his sights.

My favorite was a woman who has lived in the islands for thirty years, carrying on after the death of her husband in a logging accident with just her dog - part wolf, part husky- for companionship. Her dog was attacked a few years back by a grizzly, and had his spine broken in a couple of places. He is aging now, and his injuries cause him difficulties. She is aging too; she had both knees replaced this winter, and thinks this may be her last summer in the islands. Her pain at parting from the place she loves is palpable.

Of course the scenery was spectacular. The ports of call were interesting. The most fascinating part of the journey for me, is the people who share it with you. Without them, it's just a ride. With them, it is an adventure, as thoughts and views are exchanged, hearts are warmed, and life is lived.

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