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Tiling is something that not many people are confident enough to to for themselves. However it is a lot easier then most people might think, and can save you a hell of a lot of money compared to hiring a professional to do the job. So long as you know what to do and what not to do then tiling is an easy thing for even a beginner to try their hand at.

The first thing to do is to choose the tiles. There is a surprising amount of choice when choosing tiles, there are different sizes and colors, as well finishes and materials. Some tile companies will also make their tiles an odd size on purpose so that if you need one extra or a replacement tile then you have to order a whole box from them.

When starting the project first of all measure out the floor area, and decide whether the tiles will go under any units and fittings etc. It is generally better to tile under the fittings if possible. This is because if you need to move any of the appliance at a later date. for example a fridge, you don't then need to lift them up ver the edge of the new tiles.

Next after choosing the tiles divide the width of the floor by the width of a single tile, to determine how many complete rows you will have, and decide the best wall edge to have the cut tiles against. When using the tiles you intend top cut for the edge of the wall remember that you can easily use both parts usually.

Next begin to apply the tiles to the floor, ensuring an even coverage of adhesive is put down on the sub-floor. The adhesive type will depend on the sub-floor (the surface being tiled onto). For a concrete floor a rapid setting adhesive is the best to use, although make sure not to mix too much up at once, as the working time can be as little as 1/2 hour before setting.

For a wooden sub-floor, a flexible adhesive is required, which should be stated on the bag/tub. (natural materials such as slate require a gray adhesive, whereas white marble or travertine etc require a white adhesive, so as to ensure no color from the underside bleeds through to the front, staining the face of the tile)

A side note here is that if using uncalibrated tiles (I.e they differ in thickness, for example slate), always use the thicker ones in the center, as the edges of the area can be built up with extra adhesive. Making sure that you sue the right trowel is important here as well. Trowels have teeth designed for a specific type of tile. So when tiling a floor you should always make sure that you have a floor tile trowel appropriate for the tiles you have.

After the tiles have been fixed to the floor, and after allowing sufficient time to dry, it will be time for grouting. If using natural tiles, i.e slate, marble, travertine, limestone, granite, some porcelain, they will need to be sealed before grouting, with a specialist impregnating sealer to make them waterproof and more impervious to dirt or staining.

Mix the grout and apply with a grout float to the tiles, working over the gaps till they are all filled. (some materials such as white marble need a white grout rather than a gray, as gray can stain white natural stone) Lastly finish off by wiping the excess grout from the tiles with a sponge, and smoothing the grout lines with a grout finisher (or use your finger). Then stand back and admire a job well done!

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