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Paris is the city of lights, with hundreds of monuments and museums documenting its rich and ancient history, thousands of cafes and bars with a lively nightlife, and a cuisine to die for. Is it also the city of tourist-hating snobs as it's been stereotyped to be?

The answer is: it depends on the tourist.

My own foray into France, which took in Paris, Versailles, and Chartres, introduced me to the warm and hospitable people of France. On our arrival the first evening, the concierge at our hotel was stiffly apologetic. Our rooms were not ready. There'd been a booking mistake, and we might have to switch rooms in the middle of our stay. We might not have the accommodations we'd requested. No problem, we said. We were just happy to be in Paris, and there was no difficulty in switching rooms if it was necessary. The concierge looked a little surprised, and by the time we returned from dinner, everything had been smoothed out. From that point forward, the concierge was warm, polite, and helpful in all things.

And therein lies the secret for making your Parisian stay as comfortable as possible: show politeness, and the majority of Parisians will return politeness. You may still encounter a few rude French people in spite of your efforts, but the same is true everywhere you go in the world.

There were other American tourists - as well as Italian and Russian tourists - at the same hotel who clearly did not understand that principle. There were tourists who were loud, demanding, rude, and who treated Paris as their own private amusement park where everyone ought to kowtow to their personal wants. These tourists were given cold looks and minimal service in response, and were probably the sort of tourist who returned with tales of how rude the French people are.

If you plan a trip to France and want the best experience possible, keep these things in mind:

1) Understand that the French are formal people. If you have learned the French language, which you ought before venturing into France, you should be familiar with the "tu" and "vous" forms of verbs. "Tu" is the familiar form, used by parents with their children or between close friends. "Vous" is the formal form. As a tourist, bear in mind that all French people are "vous" to you, not just in the language, but in all things. Use your utmost politeness everywhere you go. Address everyone - the wait staff, the police officer, the cab driver, the store clerk - as "monsieur" or "madame." Remember to use "pardon," "s'il vous plait,"

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