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Weathering is the term railway modellers use to describe the process of treating model locos, rolling stock and buildings etc. to try and make them look more realistic by distressing them to recreate the effects of daily dirt and wear and tear that affect real trains.

Railway modellers tend to fall into two camps: those who abhor weathering as an unnecessary and often unconvincing waste of time, and those who believe it adds authenticity to model trains and landscapes.

It is now possible to buy a lot of stock these days with factory weathering this is inevitably more uniform than something personally created by an individual, but it is improving in quality and increasing in popularity. I recently saw a set of additions to a model urban layout sold by Hornby (a British manufacturer of OO gauge) which included mini black rubbish sacks and an electricity junction box with added "Ban the Bomb" graffiti, so you can certainly get pretty much everything weathered these days!

But for many enthusiasts, weathering begins at home, and since it is only too easy to do it badly, especially when learning the skill, I strongly recommend trying it out for the first time with an inexpensive and none too precious second hand loco, preferably bought for the purpose. That way, if you make a real mess of it the first time, you haven't ruined your existing stock.

Before you start, remove the body of the loco from its chassis, remove or mask the windows and paint over any printed logos or numbers with a clear matt varnish to prevent them being damaged or obliterated. If you are aiming to recreate the look of a real locomotive then you will need a photograph to guide your creative efforts. Make sure you match the type of weathering accurately to the environment the train works in the grime and pollution found on urban goods shunters is very different from the sandblasting found on transcontinental desert locomotives.

Here are some of the most popular techniques:

The wash method involves diluting paint with white spirit or thinner and brushing the resulting wash on to simulate dirt or rust. You can use a thin modeller's brush to brush in rust - try Humbrol's rust matt acrylic model paint No.113 which comes in little 12ml pots for just over one British pound ($2) = and use a cotton bud to remove any excess.

Using an alcohol wash on the existing paint work is also useful it takes a few minutes to work, but will discolour paint in a way reminiscent of that often found on old rolling stock. Using a small sharp modelling knife to chip off bits of paint replicates flaking and dabbing a fine synthetic sponge (a make-up sponge is great) over a paint wash gives a good effect which resembles dirt build-up if you use the right colours - a mixture of matt black and white with rust colour and white spirit is a good base from which to experiment.

Dry-brushing, spraying and using graphite colouring pencils or chalks are all accepted techniques, followed by sealing the effect afterwards with matt varnish to ensure it stays how you want it. You can even create dents, either by actually hammering them into metal chassis, or by using a soldering iron with caution on a plastic kit. Whole websites are devoted to hints, tips and specialised materials (check out www.weatheringdoctor.com or www.griffsgrimeshop.com for example.)

It may be a controversial practice among model railway enthusiasts, but weathering is here to stay. When it is done skilfully and meticulously it certainly can enhance the realism of a model railway layout. After all, rail companies rarely have the time or inclination to polish their locomotives and equipment until they shine!

Learn more about this author, Anne Davey.
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