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There's nothing more frustrating than getting ready to go work in your garden, only to find you have a bunch of rusty or worn out tools. If you've ever tried to use a dull hoe, you know what I mean. You feel like you are playing Whack A Mole. This is preventable and a very easy fix. You've made the investment in your tools, so protect them. A small amount of time and effort this fall is all you need to get off to a good start next spring.

EXAMINE YOUR TOOLS

First, take a good look at your garden tools. Are they neglected? Are your wood handles rough or splintered? Are they dirty? Do they have rusty blades? Are they dull? All of these problems are easy fixes. With a little TLC, your tools will enjoy a much longer life.

WOOD PARTS

Start with any wood parts of your tools, usually just the handle. Wipe off any dirt, using as little water as possible. Then, sand it down lightly with fine sandpaper to remove any splinters and rough patches. Remove the dust with a clean, soft cloth. Then, rub down the wood with linseed oil. Keep applying thin coats until the wood will not absorb any more. Wipe off any excess.

*If you find the handle is weak or even broken, don't try to fix it. You can replace a handle easily by purchasing one in any garden supply store. Most carry a wide variety or can order one for you. If your tool is not a good quality one to begin with, do yourself a favor and buy a new one, and promise yourself you will take care of it in the future.

FIBERGLASS

If you have any fiberglass parts, these are very easily maintained. You can just wash them with soap and water, and dry with a clean towel.

METAL

Metal surfaces require a little more work. Start by washing off the large patches of dirt. Then, sand off the remaining soil using steel wool. Next, check for rust. If your tool has a lot of rust, soak it in white vinegar to remove it. If it has just a little rust, uses steel wool on it until it's clean. Wipe of any dust and apply a rust-proof primer.

It's also important to check any screws for rust or corrosion. A clean and shiny tool is useless if the handle or blade falls off. Replace any rusty or damaged screws now to avoid headaches later.

SHARPENING

Now that your tools are cleaned up, it's time to sharpen them. You could have them professionally sharpened, or you can learn to sharpen them yourself. It's not difficult, but it does take some patience at the beginning.

For larger blades, use a mill file. You can hold the tool to be sharpened, or you cna put it in a vise attached to a work bench. Start at the top of the bevel and file away from you. Try to follow the original bevel of the tool, and lift the file up between strokes. When you finish sharpening the bevel, you will notice burrs have formed at the end of the blade. Flip the tool over and use the file to gently knock these off.

For small blades and pruning tools, you will need a medium to small file. Because of tight corners, you will need to disassemble some tools to reach all of the blade. The process is basically the same as with large blades. Sharpen only the beveled edges, and try to maintain the original bevel.

When you've finished sharpening your tools, hose them off and dry them thoroughly. Reassemble the tools if necessary and wipe down the blades with a general purpose oil.

STORAGE

Now that your tools are clean and shiny, you need to store them properly to keep them that way. If possible, keep long-handled tools hanging on a wall. If that is not possible, place them in buckets filled with sand and oil to prevent rust and corrosion from recurring. Same with hand tools. Keep them in a bucket or container to keep them rust-free and easy to locate next spring.

Learn more about this author, Jenna Marshall.
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