by E.L. Miller

Created on: March 09, 2008

FROM SPORTS TO SEX: ABERCROMBIE & FITCH'S TRADEMARK STYLE
Purveyor of "casual luxury" clothing, a trademarked description, Abercrombie & Fitch Co. is a large American clothing company, with stores in 49 of the 50 states, plus Canada and the UK. From its more rugged beginnings, through periods of struggling sales, A&F has emerged as a leading retailer, spawning four additional brands: abercrombie, Hollister Co., RUEHL No.925, and Gilly Hicks.

HISTORY
A&F began as Abercrombie Co., an upper-class sporting goods store, in 1892. Its downtown Manhattan location catered to many famous names, most notably Teddy Roosevelt and Ernest Hemingway, both avid hunters, aviators Charles Lindbergh (he was wearing the brand's clothes on his historic trans-Atlantic flight) and Amelia Earhart, and Hollywood stars Greta Garbo, Clark Gable and Katherine Hepburn. In 1900, a frequent customer and wealthy attorney, Ezra Fitch, joined owner David Abercrombie, and together they founded Abercrombie & Fitch in 1904. Their partnership ended in 1907 amid disputes over the future direction of the brand, with Abercrombie selling his shares to Fitch and returning to the manufacturing of professional sporting equipment.

Fitch had other ideas for the company, and continued expansion of the brand, adding women's apparel and becoming the first store in New York to sell clothing for both sexes. He launched an aggressive marketing campaign, which included a budget-busting mailing over over 50,000 456-page catalogs featuring merchandise and articles. The gamble paid off, and A&F's numbers were back in black.

Ten years after taking over the store, Fitch moved it into a twelve-story building on the New York corner of Madison Avenue and 45th Street. A&F occupied the entire building, with elaborate layouts on every floor, including a shooting range, art gallery, and bookstore. There was a golf school with a resident pro and a fly-and bait-casting instructor to give lessons at the pool on the roof.

Fitch retired in 1928, but A&F continued its expansion, operating stores in San Francisco, Chicago and locations in several other states. In the late 60s, the company experienced a rough period, finally filing for bankruptcy in 1977. Sporting goods company Oshman's acquired A&F, and also failed to bring the store back to life. A&F was then purchased by Limited Brands (parent company of Victoria's Secret, Express, Limited and Bath & Body Works) in 1988. Under this ownership, A&F took off in a new direction and established

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