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There are four types of Italian restaurants that can be found in the States from bad to great.

1. Italian-like chain restaurants.
Who came up with the concept of offering eight pounds of uncooked pasta on a dish thrown together by an ex-con and served by a high school ditz forcing a smile for a tip?

The chain concept is about the essence of Italy for the watered down American taste and wallet. America! Don't go to Olive Garden or Bertucci's! A great Italian restaurant does not over feed you or and play mandolin music in the restroom.

2. Local family-styled joints.
These restaurants were once authentic and can be found in the "Little Italy" of most major US cities. The problem I have with these restaurants is that the walls are painted with cheesy Italian-like murals; they are operated by the third generation who care less about updating the menu or environment and pretty much know nothing about Italian food past what their grandmothers cooked up. There may be a special dish that is really good, but I think these are nostalgic eateries of the past.

Also, I personally prefer an Italian to cook Italian food! They have the hand, knowledge and blood to do so. There are no Italians in American-Italian kitchens. It is similar to me serving Chinese food to a Chinese person. It would never happen.

3. High-end gourmet.
So! You named your restaurant "Aglio" or "Olio," you have a celebrity chef, a cool location and interior design, media friends giving you a boost, but your restaurant turns into a nightclub, while people are trying to eat. The food is actually good and the wait-staff are relatively knowledgeable, but electronica music and a loud bar ruin the meal.

You also think that imported Italian products are an excuse to inflate prices in order to support your coke habit. Well, the food may be exquisite, but the overall experience does not render "Great." I think the concept of honesty is missing in these types of venues.

4. Hard to find.
You stumble upon these types of gems, because they are not advertised. I am a pretentious purist when it comes to Italian food outside of Italy, if you have not figured that out. Here is what I look for in a great Italian restaurant:

-A small venue with a clean environment that does not scream Italy, so no hovering
plastic grapevines, statue of David or Pavarotti crying in the background.
-A small and concise menu offering locally fresh and homemade antipasti, primi, and
secondi courses with no more than two specials.
-A unique wine list with a knowledgeable sommelier.
-An extensive cheese and aperatif selection.
-A chef that greets his or her patrons without being overly obtrusive.
-Nothing on the menu that says, "Mamma, gravy, or pineapple pizza.
-No music.
-No rush and hassle.

Learn more about this author, Salvatore Oliva.
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