My Father and I argue constantly about what is "Italian" food! Our reflections tend to differ, but ultimately the simplicity of Italian food and the memories are agreed upon.
My parent's background:
My parents were born and raised in an all-Italian neighborhood in New England. My grandparents all came from the Campania region of Italy, which was quite common. Time sort of stood still for my grandparents. Although, they acclimated to the "American" way of life on the outside, home was more or less like living back in the Italian countryside.
The exposure to Italian food for my parents, while growing up was traditional Campanese style Italian food made with ingredients both imported from Italy and made in the States. The dinners were unbelievable as one would imagine, but here is where the argument stands. My grandparents cooked for a large family, so the food had to be made in large quantities. They made their own wine, grew their own herbs and bottled tomato sauce, but for the most part, the meals where versions of what my grandparents remembered from Campania. Even later in years when they could afford to go to restaurants, the food was basically the same. Campanese! For example, it is your basic marinara sauce or gravy, thin pizza with few ingredients and seafood with angel hair pasta. It is classic and simple.
My father is still living in the same area, which is now Latino and the only Italian restaurants are second rate Americanized versions of what he remembers from the past. This is his idea of what Italian food is. His memories and emotions reflect back to food made from his mother's hands and any remaining restaurants that can try to simulate the taste. I think this is his benchmark, although very focused and somewhat limited.
My background:
I was born and raised in New England by Italian American parents:
I was fortunate enough to experience the latter years of my Grandparents life on earth. I remember the language, music, traditions, holidays, feasts and Sunday dinners that lasted for eternity. This came to an abrupt end when they passed on and the family became more independent and quite frankly, Americanized. It seemed like all of the sudden, the Sunday dinners did not taste the same anymore. Even Italian restaurants in the area started catering to tourists with big dishes and prices without taste.
Now! I love to cook "Italian" food. I travel to Italy four times a year and have been for the past ten years. I travel to all regions and experience the different styles and off the beaten path gems. My experience of Italian food is obviously different from my father's. Although, I love the microscopic memory of my childhood version of Italian-American food, I feel the need to explore the authentic varieties that actually exist in Italy, where the food is fresher, local and rooted in history many moons, before millions of Italians immigrated to the USA.
I find it difficult to call American Italian food Italian, whereas my father claims it is better in the States than Italy. Well, he went to Italy once in 1966 when he was 30 and I do not think food was his top priority. I have been fortunate enough to experience both Italian and old school American-Italian food. I think both styles conjure up memories and emotions, which are an extension of the food. The family, music and occasions somehow make the food taste extra special. This is one part of the argument we agree on.
Learn more about this author, Salvatore Oliva.
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