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to sell you tourist tat, stroll out into the Piazza San Marco, one of the largest open spaces in Europe. Admire the front of the Basilica and after some rain, as we experienced, you can see its grand facade reflected in the decorative paving. If you have more money than sense you can stop for a drink and a snack in on of the cafes which can be found underneath the colonnade which goes around the square on three sides. Above the colonnade are historical museums. The colonnade itself houses shops. You soon get the idea that in Venice the shops are either selling glass from nearby Murano or masks for the famous Venice carnival. Shop around if you want a souvenir. Prices vary greatly and be aware that what might look stunning in Venice is completely out place when you get it home.

Whilst we are on the subject of glass and Murano, many hotels will offer you a free trip to the small island where you can watch the glassmakers at work. TIP No.4: This is a tourist trap. The glass on sale here can be expensive so know your prices and don't get bounced into a purchase you'll regret later.

As we were staying so close to St Mark's we decided to return there in the evening. This was such a delight we returned every night. The air was balmy, the major buildings floodlit and the cosmopolitan crowd milled around whilst orchestras from competing cafes try to drown each other out. It's amazing what a difference a lack of traffic makes. Sitting in a cafe being serenaded as the breeze coming off the Lido touches you like a caress is an unforgettable experience.

Gondola trips. TIP No.5 Yes I know, everyone wants to have a trip on a gondola. It's certainly worth it at least once. The best experience is to take a trip out onto the Grand Canal. Some of these trips involve three or more gondolas lining up abreast whilst a latter-day Caruso sings you some Neapolitan classics. Its cheesy but certainly an adventure, and you get to be about three inches form the water which can be a bit scary. These gondola trips are not cheap so if you are on a budget make sure you check the prices.

We decided to walk to the Rialto bridge, made famous by Shakespeare's Merchant of Venice. TIP No. 6. Make sure you have a map. Venice is a veritable warren of small streets, canals and, bridges. But you'll usually see signs pointing to "Rialto" or "San Marco" and you can just follow the crowds, but a map is there in an emergency and gives you an idea of distance. In fact Venice is very easy to walk, and with a

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