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tables and chairs decorated simply with starched white tablecloths upon which sit tiny vases, each adorned with a single hibiscus flower.
The tranquility is total; a few cirrus clouds scud high overhead driven by a light summer breeze and the only audible sound is that of the chinking glasses in the darkened recesses of the taverna as they are polished to a high sheen by the lady owner. I wander on down to the harbor and see a balcony to my left over which some huge salt-encrusted ropes are drying in the sunshine. As I walk further along the quayside, two fisherman are engaged in repairing their nets whilst entertaining themselves by singing what is no doubt an Ithacan tale of Odysseus who loved this island so much that he always hankered for his swift return.
I feel as though I am on the set of a film but if this scene were part of a production, people would scoff and say, "nothing can be that tranquil, it's just TOO perfect" and dismiss it as idle fantasy. I continue my stroll around the harbor and then decide that the unrelenting heat dictates that I should sample the beer in the taverna that I passed a few minutes ago. I take a seat and within a moment, a frozen glass of chilled beer arrives, served with a flourish by the same lady I saw earlier. I thank her profusely for the amazingly quick service. "How did she know I wanted a beer?", I say to myself but then realize that the taverna probably offers just beer, ouzo and strong Greek coffee, and, given the heat here, a beer would appear to be a safe bet. None of your alcopops, continental lagers or top shelf liqueurs here.
I sit at the table, apparently the only visitor here on this scorchingly hot day, whilst I sup the beer that's so cold, it hurts the sinuses. Life goes on around me and I notice with delight that everyone speaks to me as they amble past, with some of the older residents even doffing their battered fishing caps. I hear the patter of small footsteps and as I peer over my shoulder, two small children run by, laughing uncontrollably, with huge smiles almost dividing their olive-hued faces in two. They flash by my table then disappear through a door into what is no doubt the house of their family or a relative who will greet them with a loving hug.
I want to stay here forever, savour this kind of life where the sun shines on more than three hundred days of the year, where material possessions are few but the quality of life is beyond comprehension, where the evening meal comes from a fishing boat or from a chicken, goat or sheep that is as much a part of the family as the youngsters are, and where the only worry is whether the bakery will still have some bread left in the afternoon when an unexpected visitor shows up.
I finish my beer, pay the "logariasmo" and walk back towards the parked car. This why I love Greece so much, the enjoyment of life, the simple pleasures, the all-embracing love of the family and the wonderful climate. Kioni is without doubt, the most beautiful place I have ever visited. I now know why Odysseus always hankered for his home island.
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