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As the ice of winter yields to blustery spring weather, the first tendrils of green appear in the vegetable garden: peas. While many Americans think of them only as those nasty green things our mothers made us ate, in centuries past they were once much prized as the first fresh, green, delectable thing on the plate after a long winter of preserved food. And no wonder, when we taste fresh-grown peas straight from the garden.

Their delicate, sweet flavor will convert anyone who was raised on pale, flabby, canned peas.

Whether we're growing the tiny, sweet petits pois loved by the French, or the robust pods of the snap peas, the growing methods are much the same, differing only for the the dwarf and the standard varieties.

Peas should be planted as early in the spring as the ground can be worked. My grandmother always planted hers on Washington's birthday (February 22nd), and while I may not quite hit the date exactly, I do try to get my peas in the ground in late February or early March. Here in the Pacific Northwest where I garden, a fungal disease called pea enation can strike late-planted peas before they produce, so early planting is a must. In areas with longer winters, wait just until the snow has melted and the ground has begun to thaw. In areas with long, mild autumn weather, a second crop of peas can be planted in early August for a fall harvest.

Peas require soil that is loose and loamy, but it does not have to be rich. In fact, since peas are legumes, their roots form an association with nitrogen-fixing bacteria in the soil, thus enriching the soil for themselves and for crops that are planted after the peas are done. If the soil was not prepared in the fall, work it at planting time. Some added compost is beneficial to keep the soil light and to add beneficial bacteria and micronutrients.

Because germination in cold soil is so slow, I prefer to soak my pea seeds before planting. After letting them soak overnight, I drain the water and leave them in the jar to begin germinating, rinsing them every day to prevent mold. Germination usually takes three to five days. Once I see the tiny root emerging, I coat the seeds with an inoculant made for legumes. Inoculant is a powder available from gardening centers. It contains live nitrogen-fixing bacteria which the peas need to get a good start. The populations of these bacteria in cold soils is low, so a little inoculant helps ensure a good start for your young peas. This step isn't necessary for summer-planted

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