by Cindy Hartzell

Created on: January 23, 2008

Somewhere back in history, some smart knitter invented gauge. Until gauge was introduced, knitters followed the same patterns with extreme variations in outcomes. You see, all knitters are not created equal. Some are really uptight, and some are down right loose!

Yes, we're talking about knitting styles here, and everyone really has a unique style all their own. Gauge is also sometimes referred to as tension. Aside from knitting styles, the type of yarn and size of needles used for a project also greatly impact the outcome of the project, and therefore are an important component of gauge.

Imagine the following scenario: Knitter # 1 picks up a basic one size fits all cardigan pattern that has no information on gauge, and just instructs to use a lightweight wool blend, and size 10 needles. So Knitter # 1 selects a wool blend boucle yarn, follows the instructions to the letter and whips up a rather bulky, larger than expected sweater.

Knitter # 2 decides to use an eyelash yarn which contains wool slubs and also follows the pattern with exact precision. This sweater comes out rather flimsy looking, and just a little smaller than expected. As you can imagine, before there was gauge there were a lot of unhappy knitters!

Multiply the scenarios above by a countless number of patterns and knitters, and it becomes very clear why gauge needs to be determined before starting a project. Just to make it clear, knitting a project without checking the gauge first sets you up for potential failure and disappointment.

Typically gauge will be introduced at the very beginning of a pattern, before the actual knitting instructions begin. It is usually presented by giving the number of stitches and rows that will produce a 4 inch square. For instance;

On worsted weight wool and US size 10 needles:
22 stitches X 18 rows = 4 inches

Work a sample piece (swatch) of 22 stitches, and knit the pattern given for 18 rows. If your work comes out larger than the gauge (in this case larger than 4 inches), simply switch to a smaller size of needles, and try again. For the example case above, you should probably try a size 9, or if your work is still too large, try size 8 needles.

If the opposite happens and your swatch is smaller than prescribed, then trade up to larger needles. In those cases where your gauge is just a slight bit off, swap only one of the needles for a larger or smaller size. It will not make your rows look uneven, and should be enough of a change to do the trick.

Hopefully now, you have a better understanding of gauge, and why it is important. You may also want to explore some other Helium articles such as; "Knitting projects for which gauge is not important." However, next time you see a pattern gauge; try it, won't you?

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