The only real way to get the hang of surfing is to go out and do it.
The feeling of riding a wave is like nothing else.
HOWEVER, there are some things to keep in mind before you run into the sea:
1. Prerequisits
-Surfing requires a lot of paddling. Strong swimming skills are helpful, if not necessar
-Knowledge of the water. Find out the dangers of the surf and the temperature. You don't want to be freezing in the water, or you will get very little practice time.
2. Surfing Basics
-Lying on the board: You can't be too far forward or you will do a nose-dive and bail. You can't be too far back or you won't be able to catch the wave. The idea is to find the center of balance and put your center of balance on that spot.
-Catching the wave: You want to start paddling before the wave reaches you. The idea is to "catch" it just as it is about to break. Paddle hard.
-Stading up: Stand up once you think you have caught the wave. In order to stand up you have to make one fluid motion from basically a push-up to your feet. But, STAY LOW with your knees bent and your stance wide. Grip the board with your feet (hopefully it is waxed enough!) by pushing outward as if it separate your legs (your feet shouldn't actually move). This can be practiced out of the water.
3. Surfing Etiquette
-Stay out of the way of other people. Don't cut anyone off!
-The first person to stand up gets the wave, so if it's not you then sit that wave out.
Most importantly, go out and have fun. Enjoy the water!
Learn more about this author, Joseph Liau.
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