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Travel destinations: Cape Cod's Atlantic White Cedar Swamp, Massachusetts, US

by Jaclyn C. Stevenson

Created on: January 08, 2008   Last Updated: April 18, 2011

Among the Cedars:
Start an Outer Cape get-away in the depths of a hidden forest




As the Bourne and Sagamore Bridges emerge from the horizon, travelers bound for Cape Cod feel a sudden lurch in their hopes: Hyannis and Provincetown, three miles ahead! the highway signs promise.

But that anticipation is usually felt by thousands, causing cars to inch their way on to the Northeast's most famous peninsula. For those traveling all the way to the fingertips of Cape Cod's flexing arm of surf and sand, perhaps to P-town,' the little hamlet that never sleeps, three miles to the bridge is actually followed by another 50.

The beauty of a trek down Cape,' however, is that the major throughway, Route 6, serves as a central artery from one end of Cape Cod to the other, and stopping for impromptu exploration (without getting lost) is easier that it first might seem.

Cape Cod is divided into three sections: the Upper Cape, Lower Cape, and Outer Cape, which includes the towns of Eastham, Wellfleet, Truro, and Provincetown. It's here that Route 6 gives way to those sand dunes and quaint little villages we hear so much about, as well as hidden gems that are perfect for starting a get-away a little early.

Forget the mini-golf, whale watches, and fried clams (however, return to the clams later. that's a must), and even set aside the fantastic shopping, dining, and nightlife that the area offers.

Instead, picture yourself, and perhaps your betrothed, strolling under a canopy of cedars and maples. Tea-colored water stirs gently on either side of you, and the faint sound of the surf crashing on a shore in the distance stops your racing mind.

This is the Atlantic White Cedar Trail, found just off of Route 6 at Marconi Point in Wellfleet. The trail is an easy walk, under two miles, and showcases one of the lesser known aspects of the Outer Cape's natural beauty: in addition to miles of beach, there are also several pockets of lush forestry and fresh-water ecosystems.

The trail begins as a simple, sandy path in the seaside woods. Gentle, rolling hills descend into mossy pools, where hikers can walk on water with the help of a boardwalk maintained by the Cape Cod National Seashore. The sunlight only peeks through the dense trees, and gives the entire stroll a magical, romantic feel.

The White Cedar Trail also goes through a metamorphosis each season. In the summer, vibrant greens, blues, and yellows are predominant, while in the fall the trees take on a deep brown hue. Finally, as winter approaches, the white cedars live up to their name, growing a striking, cold-weather coat that turns the forest into a sparkling wonderland.

As the path draws to an end, it opens up to a spectacular view of Marconi Point, where Guglielmo Marconi first made transatlantic, wireless communication a reality in 1903.

The White Cedar Trail is family and pet-friendly, as well as a respite from the hustle and flow of traffic. It's also only 20- to 30- minutes away from the heart of Provincetown, an acceptable distance to those fried clams, and the vibrant culture of Commercial Street.

To pause for a breath, to get out of the car, to reset tired brains and weary eyes these are the draws of the White Cedar Trail, and an apt start to a successful adventure.

Learn more about this author, Jaclyn C. Stevenson.
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