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huts are bewilderingly dark with simple cutlery and pottery scattered over the floor for my clumsy feet to trip over. The only light afforded is through a tiny crack in the wall no bigger than a mobile phone. It was a simple life they were living, hunting their food, building their homes and making and selling tourist artefacts. Speaking to Eric, our Maasai guide and the head of the village, it was clear that they were smart both in raw intellect and in the ways of the world. Eric cannily spent most of his time with me having quickly realised that I was the soft touch most likely to buy his spear. "Don't you think it's beautiful, my father made it for me from wood and rocks he collected on Kilimanjiro." A likely story, but a good effort. Eric was astute enough to show me how easy it was to take apart for the flight home.

Despite their renowned intellect many of the tribe stay put and don't try to find a new life in the city. This got me thinking. Is it better to live as the Maasai do and take care of yourself, controlling your own destiny; or is it preferable to live in cities working 16 hour shifts for a pittance? Both sets of Kenyans are proud people and have an inner strength that shines through in their posture, voice and smiles, but maybe the Maasai have more to smile about.

We left Eric and his village behind and set off to find what I had originally come to Kenya for to see the big game. But as I clutched my new ash tray and admired my new necklace I considered that I may have already seen the stars of the show, the people. So if you do decide to go to Kenya, don't forget to go on a human safari and explore a little deeper into the minds of the Kenyan people. Although the wildlife is spectacular, if you ignore the people then frankly you've only seen half the picture. Wherever I go next I know I will try and be a little less timid and speak to the locals, because this holiday was all the richer for it. As if you need further encouragement, may I tell you that upon our return from the safari Julius handed Liza and I an elegantly carved giraffe and an intricately crafted elephant a thank you for our custom. I proposed to him on the spot.

Learn more about this author, Daniel Waters.
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