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Choosing the Right Belay Device

From self-camming units to the old standby figure eight, belay plates and tube-style units, climbers today enjoy a variety of belay devices. An essential tool for all climbers, selecting the right belay device is an important decision. All these devices have their advantages and disadvantages, but among the myriad devices on the market today tube-style devices are a solid and safe choice.

Unlike self-camming units like the Petzl Grigri, the temptation to rely too much on the device and not properly lock off is not present. It's just you the device, a good carabiner and the rope that do all the work. The device also contains no moving parts to wear out, eliminating another source of frustration and potential point of failure. They also avoid shock loading the rope as a self-camming unit is prone to do. This makes your ropes last longer since tubular units have a fair amount of give due to reaction time and the variable amount of friction that can be applied. Tube-style units don't cause kinks in your rope as the classic figure eight is prone to do. They also require less effort to properly lock off compared to the figure eight or belay plate. The simplicity and ease of use found in tube-style devices eliminates many of the problems associated with other units.
When selecting a tube there are several important factors useful in determining if it is a quality unit. Essential to the device is the keeper loop. A robust and sturdy keeper loop is preferable. Generally a sheathed steel cable, the keeper loop prevents the device from sliding up the rope. They vary in size and flexibility. Larger, stiffer loops are preferable. If a loop tweaks or pops it runs the risk of failure and it is time to retire the device. In addition to a strong keeper loop, a thick walled unit is the better choice. The thick walls help dissipate the heat from the rope's friction and will not wear out as quickly. Thin walled units wear out and the walls oxidize coating your rope in aluminum oxidation commonly referred to as "rope gack." Wear on the unit's walls can also lead to sharp edges that can damage the sheath of your ropes.
There are a few drawbacks to tube-style devices, mostly dependent on the type of set-up you generally climb. Though belay tubes are excellent at handling thin and double ropes, most models have difficulty with larger diameter ropes. In addition, when used as a rappelling device, some climbers find tubes slower than other devices.

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