I traveled a couple of hours the other day to Brentwood, Tenn. I didn't go in hopes of sighting celebrities from nearby Nashville, as entertaining as that may be. I went to see a small, unassuming eatery called Matteo's Pizzeria, to talk with Peter Spellman, managing partner, about their gluten-free (GF) crust and to have my first piece of take-out pizza since being diagnosed with celiac disease three years ago.

Celiac disease (CD) is an inherited autoimmune condition that affects 1/133 Americans, though many go undiagnosed. People with CD are unable to digest the storage protein, commonly called "gluten," in wheat, barley and rye. The only known treatment for CD is a gluten-free diet devoid of bread, pasta and many processed foods. These food restrictions make eating out especially difficult. Countless favorite restaurants, particularly pizza parlors, become distant memories for people with this disease.

Since few pizzerias offer gluten-free pizza, a significant segment of the population is left unserved. Peter Spellman decided to fill that gap in Brentwood. After attending a Florida food conference that focused on healthy pizza and gluten-free alternatives, he became convinced that Matteo's niche-how they are different from the chains-is to produce the healthiest pizza possible, to use fresh ingredients, freshly made dough and to provide a gluten-free crust. His business, in its 8th year, has not been the same since.

"Matteo's is locally owned and operated," he said. "We want to be a part of the community and to take care of the people closest to us. Our goal is to do one thing and to do it well. We want to be at the top of the list for pizza. Gluten-free issues are overwhelming, but our enthusiasm keeps us going."

Spellman described the meticulous processes required to provide safe, gluten-free pizza.

"When producing a gluten-free pizza, one cannot be rushed," he said. "We have to give it our full attention. We have to make sure there is no wheat flour on our hands, or on measuring equipment, spatulas and spoons. It is not safe to use the same equipment for gluten-free pizzas that we use for our regular pizzas, so we went out and bought a second set of tools that is designated "gluten-free only."

He explained other precautions necessary to protect GF pizzas from contamination. Newly installed exhaust fans help pull flour out of the air. GF tools have to be washed in a separate sink from other equipment. Oven racks

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