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Repairing drum breaks is fairly simple if you have a basic mechanical aptitude. Many vehicles have a combination of both Disc and Drum brakes, usually Disc in the front and Drum in the rear. The main difference is easy to spot; disc brakes use hydraulic pressure to clamp brake pads on a rotating disc affixed to the wheel by the lug bolts. Drum brakes use either hydraulic or mechanical pressure to force shoes (pads) outward to create friction on the inside of a drum affixed to the wheel with lug bolts. Many hydraulic systems will also have a mechanical backup on the drum brakes for the parking brake.

If you are a do-it-yourself mechanic, the best tool you can own is a detailed repair manual for your vehicle. It's cheap. Go buy it. The most common repair needed on drum brakes is shoe replacement. I will outline the basic procedure here, but be warned; vehicles vary by make, model, and year. This is intended as a basic informational guide only. In the following example, we are working on a set of rear drum brakes.

Start by blocking the front wheels, ensuring the car will not roll. Make sure the transmission is in Park (in gear if manual) and the parking brake is released. Loosen the lug nuts on both sides, then raise the car using a floor jack if available. Use jack stands to support both sides securely, preferably on the frame or axle to ensure stability. Leave the floor jack in place, but do not trust it to support the vehicle alone. Next, remove the wheels and tires on both sides. They make a nice seat while working on the brakes, so leave them on the floor in a convenient position.

The drums should come off fairly easily; with some vehicles you may need to remove a dust cap, and a cotter pin and wheel nut, with others the lug nuts are all that holds the drum in place. Go ahead and remove the drum on both sides. If you forget how to put everything back together, you can refer to the other side to jog your memory. Don't laugh, it happens.

Once you have the drums off, you can see how the mechanics of the brakes work. There is an adjuster, which tightens the brakes as they wear, and a wheel cylinder that applies braking pressure. There are also springs which keep the shoes in a retracted position when not braking. Now is the moment of truth. Take a close look at the system, and your accompanying repair manual. Be honest with yourself, and decide if you should proceed, because this is the point of no return. If you're comfortable, proceed.

The nice thing about replacing

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