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Stopping over in Singapore has now become a rite of passage for backpackers and first-time travellers to the Far East. When one speaks of visiting Singapore, it usually means a transit through the vast air-conditioned halls of Changi Airport, browsing through its plethora of shops affording the weary traveller a little retail therapy. Singapore is rarely seen as a travel destination in itself; it continues to be viewed principally as a pit stop to Australia and New Zealand; and as a gateway to exotic and intriguing getaways in Peninsular Malaysia and Indo-China. However, Singapore's facade as a modern metropolis belies its charms as an Asian enigma.

Devoid of natural resources, the island's economic fortunes can be attributed mainly to the sweat and toil of its people. Although the majority of its citizens are Chinese, they co-exist in harmony with Malays, Indians and Eurasians, which have resulted in a melting pot of cultures, which is exemplified most wonderfully in the country's unique cuisine. Although the lingua franca is English, Singlish, a meld of local languages and English, is spoken widely, and is an intrinsic part of Singapore's identity.

The image that Singapore projects on the world stage as a progressive cosmopolitan city state is just but one aspect of this fascinating country. To really get to know this country one has to move beyond its well-trodden attractions. The real Singapore lies outside glitzy Orchard Road; the lights of Boat Quay; and the lush greenery of the Singapore Zoological Gardens.

Approximately six kilometres east of the country's financial district, sits a quaint, often overlooked district. Although it has received some accolades in international travel guides, few tourists venture to Katong on their own. The area is awash with Straits Chinese shophouses, rendered in elaborate designs and patterns, reminiscent of those found in Victorian England. Here, one can also find the precious few seaside villas that have yet succumbed to the wrecking ball. Katong is a showpiece of Peranakan culture, its shops purveying arts and crafts on the verge of extinction. It is in this enclave that one can pick up colourful Nonya kebayas (traditional dress of female Peranakans), exquisite handmade beaded slippers and handbags, as well as antiques. Along the main thoroughfare East Coast Road, you will come across three retail-cum-cultural establishments featuring the many fascinating facets of Straits Chinese culture - Rumah Bebe, Kim Choo Kueh

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