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had its perks, but it meant that my experience of Bangkok was fairly limited to the night.

Despite enjoying visits to the odd Buddhist Wat (temple) and shopping in markets during the day, I had one holiday regret. After a night out with my friends at the fabulously space-aged club, The Bed' on Sukhamurit Road, we had slept-in and missed our bus to a tourist hot spot, the Emerald Buddha of the Grand Palace. Although I was disappointed at the time, I saw it as yet another reason to re-visit this cultural metropolis.

The Tuk-Tuk came to an abrupt stop. My body jolted forwards. A fight had erupted in the middle of the road. Two men were rolling around on the ground, punching each other. It all seemed strangely familiar. For a moment I thought I was back in the West End, outside a kebab shop watching a drunken brawl.

I expected the two Thai fighters to be armed with deadly Muay Thai boxing skills, instead the scuffle, like eighty percent of fights in the night was fuelled by alcohol and required no skill.

Our driver manoeuvred us around the two wrestling men. The harsh night's breeze was uncomfortable on my face, a result of driving at speed in a motorised buggy with no windows - but I could not wipe the smile off my face. I was in love with this feeling, the freedom of this city. The night air filled my lungs; I absorbed the culture through osmosis.

I looked down at my beautiful patchwork shirt, bought for 300 Baht from Khaosan Road in Bang Lamphu. I was the world's worst barterer. As I am of Indian origin, haggling should be in my blood, but whenever I was given a price, the guilty feeling in my stomach forced me to utter the word ok'. I knew that most people marked up their prices as soon as they saw me. As a tourist I stood out like a saw thumb, I had my camera, my video recorder, mobile phone and of course the give-away sun glasses. I was an easy target, a foreigner with a conscience.

I spent a lot of time shopping in the city. I visited the trendy Suan Lum Night Bazaar and the Emporium Shopping Centre. Both had their own unique charm, the Bazaar had live music performances and the shopping centre had the big western brands that I was used to. Bangkok is renowned for being one of the most thriving commercial centres in Southeast Asia and it was always busy.

There was something about riding in a Tuk-Tuk at night that forced me to be reflective. I thought about one of the difficulties I faced whilst out shopping the onslaught of strategic beggars. I am usually a very

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