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The best way to see Ireland - the only way, really, unless you're planning to spend your visit in one city or town - is by car.

Sure, there are bus tours galore, but I'd urge you to avoid them. The bus tours take you where they think you should go, not where you WANT to go. And do you really need to spend a day at the Waterford Crystal factory? Do you really want to kiss the Blarney Stone? (Keep in mind how many lips have been there before yours.) The southern end of Ireland, where Blarney Castle and the crystal factory lie, is not where you want to be, anyway. Most of that country's best destinations lie further north.

So rent a car. Remember that you're driving on the left ... but don't worry, it doesn't take long to get used to it. And be sure to rent a small vehicle, not a big touring car - you'll be grateful for its wee size when you're out on the narrow, twisty roads and one of those big tour buses is barreling down on you from the other direction.

Driving in Ireland requires a certain amount of polite yielding, because a lot of the roads are too narrow for two cars to pass. But the oncoming drivers will yield for you, too - and you can always count on a cheery wave as you drive by each other. It also requires some patience, as you will sometimes find yourself sharing the road with a large flock of sheep. Don't worry, and don't honk your horn. Just turn off the engine and wait for them to pass. (Usually you'll see them crossing the street ahead of you, but sometimes they'll be coming down the street towards you - enjoy the gentle rocking as they pass by your car on all sides, buffing the paint job as they go!)

Don't be put off by this, though. There are plenty of wide roads and highways in Ireland, too. It's not ALL back roads and country lanes!

The joy of a self-driving trip in Ireland is that you set your own pace and you choose your own destinations. There is a lot to see in Ireland that is off the main roads and away from the big towns, so you want to keep your eyes peeled for signs pointing to unexpected places of interest. Before you begin, be sure you have a good map and a tour book so you can find your way and know what to expect when you get there. Map out a route in advance, but don't be afraid to make changes as you go. Some of the small towns that are just specks on the map are worth a visit, even if it's just for a quick lunch and a pint in one of the local pubs.

And don't get too frantic when Irish roadsigns seem to contradict each other, or when

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