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whilst the navigator shouted bearings and speeds as we weaved between the mountains. For this landlubber it was an interesting way to spend an hour or so. The rest of the day was spent reading and chatting and deciding where to invest this year's tax-free ISA allowance (it's gotta be a global property fund - every properly diversified portfolio should have one). We were warned that at about 5pm we would leave the sheltered channels and head out in the Pacific Ocean. This would be the roughest part of the journey, and sure enough by six quite a few people were populating the toilets on their knees. Dinner was a quiet affair.

Despite feeling a bit queasy myself I managed to keep everything down, but then a syrupy sentimental Disney movie came on and I had to stagger out before throwing up violently. For twelve hours the boat lurched and pitched through the waves at a steady 13 knots. It was all I could do to hang on to my bed through the night, and I was grateful when morning came with the positively still waters of Canal Messier. It was still windy but when the sun poked out it was quite warm. Mountains passed to the left and right, some covered with light snow like a dusting of icing sugar and some with whole boxes. Seals swam and jumped beside us and reports of a couple of whales remain unconfirmed - although inevitably it was the Canadian who claimed to see two.

Around lunchtime we dropped anchor at the island of Puerto Eden, a community of 180 hardy souls who make their living from the sea. This ship is the only contact for the islanders and twice a week it stops here with supplies and to take people to and from the nearest town of Puerto Natales. About ten people got on - including a couple of screaming kids. But this was the last night of our trip which not even crying babies could ruin for tonight was bingo night! As nobody had the stomach to drink the previous night the wine had started to flow quite early. After an excellent dinner of salmon and potatos it was on with the game. In a Butlinesque tribute winners could claim their prize only after dancing so I was a bit hesitant to shout bingo when I got a line, but following a routine that David Brent would have been embarrassed by I became the proud owner of a Navimag t-shirt. The prize came with the added bonus of one more day without having to do laundry!

The calmer waters and alcohol combined to provide an excellent night's sleep. We were due to dock at Puerto Natales at 11am but due to high winds we had to wait in the harbour for two hours while we were dragged in slowly by tugs. Fortunately this meant they had to feed us again and I could go back to bed for an hour. Despite the rough weather on the evening of day two it was a great trip. Even when we couldn't always see it, the landscape and its solitude was superb and the trip was one of the highlights of my trip so far. Canadian topper excepting, everybody was very friendly and good fun. Most were heading to the national park at Torres del Paine and then continuing further south to Tierra del Fuego. As this is also my route I would no doubt bump in to some of them again - maybe even Dolly and Ernie.

Learn more about this author, Darren Hawkins.
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