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If you aren't afraid of cold water, come try the waves at Long Beach on the West Coast of British Columbia. Getting there is an adventure in itself. Take a BC Ferry from either Tsawassen or Horseshoe Bay (Vancouver) to Nanaimo. Head north to Parksville along the scenic highway that skirts the ocean. Head west. Be sure to stop at Coombs, a delightful market housed in historic buildings. There you'll find fresh baked goodies, great coffee, and treasures from around the world. Goats graze on the sod roof of some of the buildings. Further inland you'll come to Cathedral Grove. Get out and stretch your legs as you gaze in wonder at old growth forest, Douglas firs and cedars so tall you'll get a crick in your neck trying to see the tops. Up a long, steep hill is the thriving town of Port Alberni. You can take a ride on the old Lady Rose out to Bamfield, and old whaling town on the coast. The return trip will take most of a day, and should be booked in advance. Bamfield is also the southern end of the West Coast Trail, one of the most spectacular hiking trails in the world. The average hiker will need at least a week to do this trail.

From Port Alberni the road gets more challenging, as you wind your way through the mountains to the west coast. We made the trip two weeks ago, and there was some road construction going on, but only minor delays. There is one rest stop on this leg of the trip, and worth stopping for the hot and delicious mini donuts available at the canteen. You will also notice the crystal clear river that flows past.

As you pass huge Kennedy Lake you are only a few moments from Long Beach. The whole area between the towns of Ucluelet and Tofino has become a National Park. There is one campground, Green Point, which has 94 campsites. Reservations are needed in the summer months, but in the fall when the big waves arrive, there should be plenty of space. There are plenty of motels in both towns, and a few private campgrounds.

Tofino is the main gathering place for surfers, and there are several places that rent boards and wetsuits, offer surfing lessons, and give information on the best surfing areas. There were hundreds of surfers in town when we were there, but the beach is so long that no area had more than a handful riding the waves. There is one surf guard on Long Beach itself, close to an area with dangerous currents and big waves. He sits in a tower and watches for novice surfers who ignore the signs warning people to stay away from a small island

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