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computer games.

The only fly in the ointment is that much of the software only runs in Spanish - but at these prices, who cares? You can specify that you want the English language version, but check on the vendor's computer that English is included as an option.

Perfume

As you walk along Eje Central you will see quite a few stalls that sell perfume. The stallholders will assure you that it is all genuine and it certainly looks the part, in its nice packaging, but don't you believe a word of it. Most of this stuff is made up in small factories in the Tepito district of the city. Keep walking, buy your software, and then walk a little further on to the Plaza Meave, which is on your left. On entering this large covered market you will see aisles going off to the left and right. Ignore them and walk straight ahead, keeping your eyes peeled to the left. About 10 yards into the market you will see a large stall selling perfumes. These are the real thing, and your wife and daughter can safely be let loose without you worrying that they are going to break the bank. The average price of Chanel Number Five in a Mexican shop is about US$150/75.00, but this stall will let you have the same 100ml bottle for less than US$100/50.00.

If that price is still a bit too much - or if you have a teenage daughter who likes to bathe in the stuff - then Mexico has plenty of shops that will sell you an authentic, made in front of your eyes copy of whatever stink is popular with females at the moment. Giving addresses would be a waste of time because these shops are on just about every street. Look inside one and you will see the enormous bottles that they use to create whatever fragrance you want. In the city centre expect to pay about US$10/5.00 for a 60ml bottle.

Tourist Souvenirs

You can't forget all the aunts, uncles and friends back home, can you? Well, since you are on Eje Central, you might as well load up with all their stuff as well. Let's go to one of the wholesale markets. Leave Plaza Meave and walk back along Eje Central towards the Latin-American Tower, as if you were heading towards the metro. You need to be on the other side of Eje Central from the tower. On your left hand side you will see a street called Ayuntamiento. Turn left into it and walk along it for about a 100 yards. You will see the giant Mercado de San Juan right in front of you.

This is one of the places where the small traders go to stock up on supplies. You are unlikely to get the same deal that they obtain, but you will still pay a lot less here than in the tourist trap establishments. The market sells just about everything, from silverware, to pottery, to clothing. Just go inside and look around. Or rather, send the females inside. You can sit outside and sun yourself. Smoke a cigarette and be happy. Just give them your credit card so they don't feel too lonely without you.

How long is all this going to take? Well, from the Bellas Artes metro station to Plaza Meave is about a 15 minute walk, if you ignore all the stalls. From Plaza Meave to the Mercado de San Juan is about five to ten minutes. Don't bother arriving before 11.00am as everything will be closed. This trip is really for the afternoon. Assuming that you know roughly what you want, then you could do everything in just over an hour. If you are wandering around, with plaintive female voices ringing in your ears, asking you to help them decide what to buy, then add more time to the schedule.

Learn more about this author, Kenneth Bell.
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