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Travel experiences: Off the beaten path

by Cyn Bagley

Created on: August 12, 2007   Last Updated: May 05, 2010

Living in Panama City, Panama

"It must be just like living in paradise," blared the radio as I passed two slow-moving cars and dodged a passenger bus muscling into traffic. A small Lada, a Russian-built car, cut in front of me, slowing to 25 MPH, while the next lane over a taxi matched his speed. Frustrated, I glanced to my right, left, and looked for an opening.

No brake lights, I thought as I nearly rear ended the car in front of me.

If you think surviving in Panama is easy, then, obviously, you haven't spent much time in the tropics. The frogs, snakes, and spiders are extremely poisonous. The bees are Africanized, but, the deadliest animal of all is the Panama driver. So, in the interest of helping the complete novice cope in Panama's concrete jungle, I have compiled a list of survival rules.

Don't Drive! Driving in Panama is similar to driving in a combat zone. There are no rules, no taillights, no headlights, and no brake lights. The drivers translate traffic laws into guidelines, and usually don't follow them. For instance, a bus will pull out in front of a fast-moving car because, Might makes Right. So, it'sbest to convince a friend, already acclimatized, to drive. Expect the experience of your life, a combination of Russian roulette and a roller-coaster ride.

If you don't have a friend to drive, then, you might want to hire a taxi. I have three rules for selecting a good taxi.

First, physically check the taxi. A basic guideline would be, "Does it have wheels, an engine?" or not as important, "Does it have a muffler, seat-belt or windows?" A lot of cars use clear plastic to replace their smashed windows. Of course, black plastic, gives an unusual tinted look.

Second, is the car marked as a taxi? Enterprising Panamanians have kidnapped, robbed, and left Americans standing at the side of the road. In Panama, a taxi must have a license to operate. It is displayed on both sides of the car and on the license plate. If the driver tries to force you into the car, he is probably not a taxi driver.

Third, negotiate. Never step into a taxi without first asking the price. It could cost you fifty dollars to drive to the hotel, when he would have taken you there for five.

So, after these warnings, you've decided to drive. Here's a few things you should keep in mind.

Don't pick up anyone. And that includes the body laying in the middle of the road. This ploy has been used successfully to rob unsuspecting victims, usually Americans. Once you have stopped to check the

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