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Planning to install ceramic tiles on tub and shower walls starts with estimating the quantity of tiles needed for the project. To do that, take some measurements of the side wall area and the end wall areas above the bathtub. For example, say that the side wall area is 4ftx5ft and one end wall area is 3ftx4ft the total area would be 44 square feet. You would need 44 square feet of ceramic tiles. If there are 8 square feet of tiles in a carton of tiles, 5-1/2 or say 6 cartons to cover for breakage would be needed. Cap tiles, corner tiles, and trim pieces can be figured out on site how many of each type will be needed. Next would be to start preparing the wall surfaces.

It is a messy job removing old tiles, repairing the damaged wall surfaces if any by patching with spackling or joint compound, and making the repaired surfaces not necessarily smooth but even with the surrounding good surfaces. Use coverall, goggles, dust mask, working gloves and keep the exhaust fan running. Take a few breaks of fresh air and drink some water if not some snacks. Now we are ready for laying out vertical and horizontal lines on the wall for a precise alignment of tiles.

Draw leveled horizontal lines 1/4-inch from the rim of the bathtub. The gap allows for expansion and contraction and will be filled later with caulking. Draw leveled vertical lines on the walls mid-points crossing the horizontal working lines. From the midpoint of the wall measure how many tile pieces can be installed in a row. If the end tile is less than half-tile width, adjust the vertical working line to make the end tile half-tile width. It is more convenient to cut a tile equally than unequally. For economy and convenience tiles are not installed all the way to the ceiling. Therefore, mark where the top most tiles will end allowing for a half or full bullnose trim or cap tile for a finish. Extend the marked point to show a leveled horizontal working line. Also, extend the vertical line if necessary to cross the horizontal line.

In the layout, do not forget to mark in any accessories such as flush-mounted soap holders. Accessories should fit into openings that are multiples of the tile sizes. On the wall where the faucets and shower head are located cut tiles to fit and allowing a gap around the fixtures for expansion and contraction. With the layout complete, the installation or setting of tiles begins. The most common style of setting wall tiles is fondly called jack-on-jack pattern. It starts by setting the first tile on the bottom horizontal working line and the vertical working line. The first tile must be set true and square because all the rest of the tiles will work off this key tile. The pattern goes to the left of the first, then to the right of the first and then to the top of the first. The next tiles will follow a left to right pattern forming a pyramid of sort that grows as more tiles are set.

Spread the tile mastic with a 3/16-inch deep v-notched adhesive trowel. Work 4 to 6 tiles at a time; tap the tiles to the mastic with a hammer over a square of plywood padded with carpeting. Special attention should be given to ends, corners, and trims where tiles may need to be cut to fit. Before grouting, clean off any adhesive on tile faces. Also, remove any mastic on the joints where it could interfere with the grout. Also, at this time install all accessories. When grouting is completed you are done except for the complete curing of the mastic which is about 24 hours.

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