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I sat in the dining room of my bed and breakfast in Westport, County Mayo, eating the delicious breakfast my hostess, Maureen, made for me, with a German couple and an American woman with her parents. I told them all I was climbing Croagh Patrick. At that point I had no idea what I was in for, the Americans had no idea what I was talking about, and the Germans looked at me like I had three heads-I guess they knew what I was in for. Maureen, the liar, said it was a "lovely climb."

St. Patrick spent 40 days and nights on the peak of Croagh Patrick, or "The Reek," and drove all of the snakes from Ireland. The mountain is 765 meters high and for penance, on the last Sunday in July (Reek Sunday), pilgrims climb Croagh Patrick.

I wore sneakers but if you have hiking boots they would be easier on your feet, although people have been known to climb barefoot for religious reasons (or on a bet). Also, bring lots of water and a walking stick-and maybe some breadcrumbs and a chauffeur.

I went into town after breakfast and hopped on the 11:15 bus with one other woman.

When I told the driver I was going to Murrisk he said, "So you're off to climb the Reek? Mary-this girl's off to climb the Reek!"

Mary said, "Oh, lovely. I used to climb it every year with my family but now I have a bad back and can't make the climb. Where's your walking stick dear? Oh, no. So you don't have one. Well, I suppose you'll make it without. I don't mean to scare ya, ya know. You're walking alone then, are ya? It's best not to walk alone. I remember one year woman climbed alone, do you remember this woman, Liam? Now I don't mean to scare ya, but she never returned home that night and the next day she was found dead, fallen off the mountain. Oh, dear. What a tragedy that was."

Mary paused to make the sign of the cross and Liam the Bus Driver found his chance to cut in.

"Just be sure to stop in at the pub at the bottom and tell everyone in there you're climbing up the Reek today. Then stop in when you return so they know you're OK. If you don't return, they'll know to contact the proper authorities. Now, I don't mean to scare ya, but these are just precautions, love. I've climbed the damn thing ten times and I survived every time!"

Liam and Mary dropped me off and pointed me in the right direction. I started getting a little worried when I was out of breath even before reaching the official starting point, which was a statue of Saint Patrick himself. I'm sure they put it at the bottom so less foolish people

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