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What is the best clasp to use for your project?
My first answer will always be "whichever is easiest for you to use". If you make something with a tricky clasp, you won't wear it nearly as often. Here on some secondary things to consider when choosing a clasp.

When making necklaces:
-Front or back? A clasp can also double as the focal point of your necklace. There are so many great options out there for decorative clasps, don't hide them in the back!

-Feeling non-committal to length? Allow an extra 3 inches or so of extender chain in the back with a hook or lever clasp for the opposite side. Make sure that the clasp you choose fits comfortably within the links of the chain first. As a finishing detail, add a small charm or wire- wrapped bead to the end of the chain so the extra chain links were obviously a choice, and not a mis-measurement.
-A hook and I can come undone if the necklace it too light, but some styles can cut into your neck if it is too heavy. I use hooks often times in the front of a necklace of I am doing a tassel design.
-Lever clasps
-Lobster claw are longer flat lever clasps
-Crab claws are more oval lever clasp
- Spring rings are round and part of the ring feeds back into itself.
End these with a closed or soldered ring.
*see my article on "Common Mistakes on Finishing jewelry
-Magnetic clasps are often the only choice for someone who has arthritic or shaky hands. Be sure that the beads used are not too heavy for the magnet. To lengthen the magnet life and the ending of the necklace, slide the sides apart rather then pulling them in opposite directions.
-Box clasps are traditional for pearls especially and are usually filigree. A hook slides into the box and snaps in. If the sliding side of the closer is flat and not a hook that pops in, make sure it fits securely and doesn't stick. I have seen beautiful clasps that just don't work well.
-"S" hooks are great for shortening necklaces or utilizing in your designs to offer various ways to wear a piece. By including open components such as soldered or decorative rings in your piece, you can hook the necklace in various locations.
-Toggles are the circle and bar closures. Remember that the beads on the side of the bar will have to be pulled through the circle side from to inch.
*tip* Like the spelling, always attach the "T" before "O" of your toggle.
When you are finishing a strung piece, add the clasp last. Before you crimp shut the second side of your necklace, close the clasp to ensure it isn't too stiff and lies nicely.
On a toggle clasp, the place where you crimp on the "T" will lie under the "O" when they are connected. This makes it harder to get to once the clasp is connected. It is hard to explain without pictures, but try it out and it will make more sense : )

When making bracelets:
-If you want your beads to stay on top of your wrist, add a heavy clasp, or more likely a heavy charm to the clasp to ensure it stays on the bottom/inside of your wrist.
- You really can't be off on a wrist size. A standard bracelet is 7 inches, but allow an inch or so of "play" room by having half of the clasp be chain and the other a lever clasp.
-If you can use a lever clasp without assistance, they are the most secure.
-I advise against hooks for bracelets if they are easily opened.
-I would advise against magnetic clasps for bracelets unless you add a safety chain.
-Toggles are my favorite clasp for bracelets because they are the easiest to do with one hand. However, they don't give you length options if you are making the bracelet for a gift.

Learn more about this author, Karey Grant.
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