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The beautiful Isle of Islay, the ancient seat of the Lord of the Isles, is the most southerly of the Hebriddean Isles and is considered by many to be the malt whisky capital of Scotland. The "Illeachs," as the islanders are known, are a wonderfully friendly, lyrical and embracing group of people who will generally go out of their way to make your visit as enjoyable as possible.

Islay is usually reached by ferry from the mainland port of Kennacraig, which is an approximate three hour drive from Glasgow, through some of the most picturesque scenery imaginable. There is a bus operates from Glasgow Buchanan Street Bus Station in the city centre. The service is provided by Scottish Citylink and is timed to coincide with ferry departures. If taking your car across to Islay, note that it is essential to book in advance with Caledonian MacBrayne. There is also a daily flight from Glasgow which only takes about half an hour but this deprives particularly a first time visitor of the natural beauty to be seen on the drive up and on the ferry crossing.

The ferry alternates its operation to Islay between the island ports of Port Ellen and Port Askaig. On board, there are numerous observation decks to watch the stunning scenery slip by, including the magnificent "Paps of Jura," twin hills on the neighbouring island. If you are hungry, there is a spacious canteen selling hot and cold meals and snacks, but it is advisable to eat early in the voyage if you want to maximise your choices, especially on busy crossings. There is also a small newspaper, magazine and souvenir shop and a licensed bar.

When you arrive on the island, I would advise any traveller to base themselves in Bowmore, the island's capital, due to both its central location and amenities. This is approximately twenty minutes to half an hour's drive away from each of the ports. The island's bus service is good and reliable both for getting to Bowmore in the first instance and for making subsequent day trips and excursions. The town has several hotels and guest houses to choose from but it is essential, particularly in summer, to book in advance. I personally have almost always stayed at the Lochside Hotel on Shore Street, just off the main street. It is a small, family run, very friendly and reasonably priced concern, with an impressive lounge, bar and conservatory for dining in. It is also worth splashing out one night to treat yourself to dinner at The Harbour Inn, which although expensive is unsurpassed for its

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