by Peter Degen-Portnoy

Created on: May 21, 2007   Last Updated: May 22, 2007

Tri-bikes - we rarely say the full "triathlon bike" and never, never say "triathlon bicycle" (why, just the idea of taking all that time is antithetical to triathlons) - differ from a regular, road bike in one key manner: they are designed to go fast.

It's easy to see that a tri-bike is different from the first glance. They look wicked. From a strange front end with bizarre handlebars to smaller wheels and a hunched over look, it's easy to see that one doesn't take this bike out for a short jaunt to the corner store. Well, unless you want to get there quickly.

The handlebars aren't curved down at the ends (in a ram's horn shape) like a racing bike. No, they look a little like the cruising style handle bar, except that the grips point forward with the brakes on the ends of the grips. Plus, there are those things in the middle: two bars that protrude forward from the center of the handlebar. Often the shifters are on the end of them. These are the aero bars. At speeds above 20 - 22 miles per hour, the aero bars buy you an extra 0.5 to 1.0 miles per hour by letting the rider tuck into a tight position - shoulders down, elbows in, body pitched forward and hunched down.

The next thing that might catch your eye is that tri-bikes have a smaller wheel set. Each wheel is only 650 mm in diameter (roughly 25.6") rather than the typical 700 mm wheel (roughly 27.5") found on a racing bike. Additionally, the wheel base (the distance between the centers of the front and back wheels) is less on a tri-bike than a racing bike. Smaller wheels are lighter, turn faster and present less wind resistance (well, that's the theory).

With some study you might next notice that the seat is above the bottom bracket (where the cranks connect to the bike) at a higher angle than on a road bike. This is to accommodate the rider in the aero-bars. With one's elbows low down in front of the center of the body, the whole body needs to pitch forward to compensate.

Sitting on a tri-bike takes some practice. The smaller wheels produce less gyroscopic effect, so the wheel leans easier. The smaller wheel base is less stable, so the whole bike leans easier. The body is tucked in tightly - elbows in, arms in front in the aero bars, knees pulled in. All of this makes for a less stable unit. In short, it's easy to wobble off of a tri-bike. But once you put a few miles behind you, you'll feel much better.

One truth in full disclosure: many people find a tri-bike less comfortable than a road bike for long rides. That makes sense, the seat is pitched forward and the bike is designed to have the rider in the tucked-in aero position for long durations. The problem with this position is that it only buys you extra speed above that 20 - 22 mile range (depending upon conditions) and it compresses the chest cavity so that breathing is more difficult. Riders want to be in this position only when it makes sense. You have to want to go fast.

If you're new to triathlons and are thinking about getting a tri bike, call around to your bike stores and see if one carries triathlon equipment (wet suits, tri clothes, etc.). Quite often these stores will have a "beginners special" that will get you an entry-level tri bike, wet suit, and tri suit for a very reasonable cost.

When you get the right bike, it feels just great. Make sure you get the bike that's right for your style of riding. The author just can't get enough of screaming downhill at 50+ MPH, and loves, loves, loves his tri-bike.

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