There are 5 articles on this title. You are reading the article ranked and rated #5 by Helium's members.
a stream of water at 1500 to 2000 psi - more than enough to loosen surface fibres, especially with soft deck woods like cedar and treated pine. Remember how I told you old, grey wood is absorbent but not strong? The same goes for fuzziness created by pressure-washing.
But there is one place where pressure-washing remains king, at least as an initial treatment: removing old finishes. The 3 or 4-inch wide spray swath at the end of the water wand lifts old, flaky finishes faster than anything else. And although it'll probably leave some stubborn patches behind, there's still no better way to make an initial attack on an ugly, old deck or fence. But there's still the fuzziness problem. That's why it's important to let pressure-washed surfaces dry thoroughly, then sand off the troublesome fuzz with a random-orbit sander. Use a machine with an angle-grinder design. They're more powerful than palm-style sanders, so you'll cover ground more quickly.
Sorting Out Your Options
Think of the array of outdoor wood finishing options as positions on a dial. You can click the dial into one of four spots, depending on your expectations of performance and your willingness to roll up shirt sleeves and get sweaty.
Option #1: Clear, No-Film Repellents
These products soak in completely, are extremely easy to apply, and obscure the natural appearance of wood the least. This appeals to lots of us who want to preserve that new-lumber look, though there is a trade-off: minimal protection against dirt and a short re-application period. You'll find it necessary to re-apply these products at least annually, and even still, some graying and cracking of wood will probably develop. Ongoing testing done since 1991 at the USDA's Forest Products Lab in Madison, Wisconsin reveals that clear, no-film products based on paraffin oils and
preservatives are among the most useful.
Option #2: Transparent, Film-Forming Products
Independent consumer testing has also shown that certain brands in this category are amongst the most durable products you can buy. But that's only true after mill-glaze has been completely removed before application. Without this step, peeling is almost certain. Also important is freedom from moist conditions. Oil-based, film forming products will fail prematurely if they get soaked often, say, from an in-ground sprinkler wetting a deck, or water splashing up on a dock. Some brands include warnings against use on decks closer than 2 feet to the ground, because of the moisture that
Below are the top articles rated and ranked by Helium members on:
Tiling your kitchen floor with ceramic, stone or porcelain evokes the sense of strength, value, and durability. It is esthetically
by Bob Hat
I have just completed tiling my laundry floor, and it was an interesting experience; a little tricky at times but not very
Tiling a kitchen floor is quite simple and can be managed by most Do it yourself handymen and women if the job is given thought.
by Dambrath
Tiling is something that not many people are confident enough to to for themselves. However it is a lot easier then most
Finishing Exterior Wood
Keeping outdoor wood looking good isn't like most things in life. When you turn the ignition key in
Add your voice
Know something about How to tile a kitchen floor?
We want to hear your view.
Write now!
Cast your vote!
Click for your side.
Featured Partner
The Overbrook Foundation has partnered with Helium, giving you the chance to write for a cause. Browse Overbrook...more
hide