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It took me one night in Ireland to realize that the cities are not where it's at. So instead of sampling the brews in Temple Bar, I headed west, to Galway and the Aran Islands.

Galway is a hip, vibrant backpacker haven, with busker-lined streets, great (though admittedly touristy) shops, and friendly locals, not to mention a beach. Access is as easy as it gets with buses running every hour from Dublin, 16 Euro return. Once you get there, there are tons of hostels to pick from. I selected the Barnacles Quay St because it's right in the center of the action. At 19 Euros and up for a 6-8 person dorm, with ensuite and breakfast (ie. bread and jam) included, it's a good deal too. For a list of all of the options, as well as online booking, check out www.hostelworld.com. Quay St. has everything you need and want - bars, cafes and internet cafes.

On a sunny day head to Eyre square to squat with a book, or take a walk out to the beach at Salthill. The other great attraction of Galway is its position as the jumping off point for the Aran Islands - famous for their woolworks, and one of the few remaining Gaeltacht regions of the country. There are three Islands: Inish Mor, Inish Meain (inish man), and Inish Oirr (inish eer). Inis Mor is the biggest, and most frequented by daytrippers from the mainland. Island Ferries (www.aranislandferries.com) run up to five times a day, with bus connection from the centre of Galway.

My personal recommendation is to stay on Inis Oirr, the smallest of the islands. The ferry connections are less frequent, but it's well worth the wait. You can truly feel the isolation as the boat, populated by locals carrying weeks worth of provisions, speeds through the Atlantic. If you're one of those hectic twelve-cities-in-four-days travellers, this is the perfect place to take a breather because at only 3km diameter, you can travel the whole island in an easy stroll.

Hostels and B&Bs are abundant considering the size of the island. I chose Radharc na Mara (ry'-erc na mora), and didn't regret it. It's friendly and family-run, with a workable kitchen (but if you plan to take advantage of that, be sure to bring groceries from Galway) and dorm rooms start at 15 Euros. The best part of the hostel was undoubtedly Ned's Pub next door, where locals gather nightly with their instruments to serve impromptu celtic selections with the Guinness. However long you plan to spend in Ireland, you simply can not pass up the rare chance to find true wilderness and isolation at the western edge of Europe.

Learn more about this author, Krista White.
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