I once was an innocent cooking neophyte who thought, naively, that salt is salt. Ignorance really can be bliss. Once the world of salt opened up before my eyes, I was presented with a quandary: which salt do I use?

At first I thought I had better stick to iodized salt. After all, our government, in all its wisdom, long ago decided that our salt should be iodized so that we don't all end up with goiter. But then I noticed that kosher salt and the many varieties of sea salt (Celtic sea salt sounds so exotic) were more expensive and often sold in specialty store. So does that mean they're better?

As it turns out- yes. Your regular, run-of-the-mill, cheap iodized table salt cannot hold a candle to sea salt. It is often full of impurities (did you want salt or sand on your dinner?) and its character can be overpowering. Sea salt enhances the flavor of your dish. Iodized salt just makes it saltier. Sea salt is humble and unobtrusive. Iodized salt is brassy and vulgar. Sea salt is the expert butler who ensures that everything goes smoothly. Iodized salt is the drunken relative who crashed the party. Now, which would you choose?

If you're still worried about that pesky iodine question, you can always follow the advice of chef Kathleen Daelemans. She recommends iodized salt for baking, kosher salt for cooking; and the most expensive, luxurious sea salt you can afford for sprinkling on your deserving feast. Bon appetit!

Learn more about this author, Annemarie Garrett.
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