In the United States, "Extra Virgin" may mean little when describing olive oil, as the Department of Agriculture does not officially recognize the classification. Why? Because the United States does not belong to the International Olive Oil Council (IOOC) whose members account for nearly 85% of the olive industry in the world. It is the IOOC that classifies olive oil as "Virgin" or "Extra Virgin.

The United States continues to use a system developed in 1948 to describe olive oil: "Fancy," "Choice," "Standard," or "Substandard," indicating the acidity, smell, taste, and absence of defects. Unfortunately, until the United States adopts the standards of the IOOC, olive oil sold here can be labeled "extra virgin" without meeting the accepted international standards. When purchasing high quality olive oil in the U.S., let the buyer beware. Or, try and find olive oil that bears a sticker indicating it came from a IOOC member country.

The grades of olive oil classified by the IOOC include:

EXTRA-VIRGIN (aka EVOO). Boasting the most delicate flavor, this is the highest quality olive oil and is preferred for salads and bread-dipping; unless you are Rachel Ray, and then you prefer it for everything. Extra Virgin olive oil is extracted by physical means, is not chemically refined, and comes from the first pressing. Any label marked as "Extra Virgin" can contain no refined oil and must have an acidity of no more than .8 percent.

VIRGIN olive oil is also extracted by pressure and has an acidity less than 2 percent. Though slightly less than perfect, it still has a pleasing taste and can contain no refined oil. This grade of oil is suitable for cooking.

OLIVE OIL - is a blend of virgin oil and refined virgin oil. The refining process means the oil is treated with chemicals to tone down the strong taste (considered a defect) and to neutralize acid content. Olive oil is 1 percent acidic at most, but is a much lower quality oil than "virgin." Any oil that bears on its label, "Made from refined oils," indicates it is inferior in quality, having been treated chemically. This oil can be used in cooking.

OLIVE-POMACE cannot be called "olive oil." Although it is fit for consumption, it is not common in grocery stores, though it is used by some restaurants for certain types of cooking. Pomace is derived from the pounded olive residue and is blended with some virgin oil to make this low quality product.

LAMPANTE oil is an industrial grade olive oil not meant for consumption. The same is true for Pomace oil and olive cake. These products are for uses such as making soap.

When shopping for high-quality olive oil, keep these helpful tips in mind: "100% Pure Olive Oil" is the lowest grade oil on the shelf, so go for the label that says, "Virgin;" "Light Olive Oil" means the oil is "less dark," not less fat; "Imported from Italy" means the oil was bottled in Italy, but the olives could have come from anywhere; "First Cold Press" means the oil is derived from pressure only and no heat processes have been used which change the oil's chemistry; "From hand-picked olives" indicates higher quality olives are used in making the oil.

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