are so narrow it's difficult to avoid collisions with loaded market traders and buyers that could end up with you getting pushed into a sewer! Or as happened to us showered with hundred of tiny died fish from a sack being carried splitting open!
It's possible to buy almost every type of Old Bead here as well as stone, Indo -Pacific and Islamic beads. The only draw back is the little shops where the beads hang are so dark it's impossible to tell exactly what the beads are.
Back at our hotel I spread the beads out on my bead. Some were familiar to me; Venetian Millifiori, Carnelians, Elbow Beads, Chevrons and Russian Blues. Others were a complete mystery and I still have to identify them.
Back in Kumasi there's a Culture Center with a museum of Ashanti history that's worth visiting and there are several art and craft galleries here to browse without pressure to buy. A shady restaurant on the site is a very welcome distraction You can return to Accra either directly by STC or if you have time by rail to Takoradi then back along the coast by bus.
My first trip to Africa has left memories that will stay with me for the rest of my life. It's certainly not an easy' destination to visit independently although Ghana is certainly more straightforward than the other West African countries and extremely cheap. Certainly from the perspective of the bead collector a trip to Ghana will reward all of your efforts. We did the trip using local transport but you could easily hire a car and driver and don't forget if you see beads in the market but can't make up your mind to buy or not its quite acceptable to ask the trader to visit you at your hotel with them later. That way you can look at them in air conditioned comfort although you may miss the sights and sounds
(perhaps not the smells) of the market having by now grown used to them.
Good bead hunting!
At the time of our trip the exchange rate was 1 = 16,700 cedis
Learn more about this author, Rebecca Coombes.
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