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the priced was halved and we left happy.

When you're in Agomanya it's easy to get to Cedis Bead Factory by hoping on a tro-tro outside the market which drops you off at the end of Cedis driveway. If by now you're exhausted by all the haggling in the market a taxi will take you all the way. Cedis is one of the many bead factories in this area welcoming visitors. Here you can see how powder beads are made: a technology that's not changed in decades.

A big wood fired kiln is used to melt the powder glass in their little round mould then they are quickly pieced while hot to create a stringing hole. The people who work at Cedis will be very happy to explain the techniques to you and there's a showroom where you can buy.

Our next market was in Kumasi but as this was a daily affair it didn't really matter when we got there. We spent a few very pleasant days by the River Volta, relaxing and ogling our purchases. A trip up to the Volta dam takes about 30 mins and The Maritime Club is a peaceful watering hole by the lake. Boat trips can be arranged here for 200.000 cedis but we just idled away an afternoon drinking cold beers and watching butterflies. Very pleasant!

To reach Kumasi we decided to head back to Accra and catch a very luxurious (by Ghanaian standards) STC coach which takes 5 hours. Unfortunately although the line is still there the railway no longer runs so a coach is the only option for this long journey. Tickets must be bought before travel and as the service is so popular either get there very early or buy the day before you travel. If you do get stuck there we can recommend the canteen serving Ghanaian dishes like yam and plantain for around 16,000 cedis.

Kumasi is a large vibrant town that feels much hotter than Accra as it's inland. All around the town is lush vegetation and the remnants of the tropical rainforest that once stood here. It's possible to make several day trips to visit nearby reserves or to Lake Bosumtwi, created by a huge meteorite.

Getting around Kumasi is a great deal easier than Accra. The layout is more European'. Old colonial buildings are still dotted about in a pretty dilapidated state but still retain much of their original charm. Unless you like noise it's best to stay out of town in one of the very pleasant lodges along The Old Beckwai Road.

Kejetia Market is reputed to be the largest in West Africa and certainly not for the faint hearted even with a guide! The hassle factor is virtually non-existent but walkways within the market

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