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people preferred to walk down the hill, because, after about a kilometre, their mobile phones worked!

Valdelavilla used to be a farming village in the hills around Soria, in north-eastern Spain. Around 1960, according to the guide-book, the demographic changed'. The villagers wanted a slice of the 20th Century, but there was no running water, it was difficult to get a car down the narrow streets and the place was so remote that television reception was almost non-existent. That is, if there was any electricity to power said television, and it was just too expensive to wire it in.

So, the villagers went elsewhere, and the village fell into ruin, and the area became a forestry plantation.

In the late 1990s, the village was restored as a rural complex' maybe a bit remote for leisure pursuits, but good for a conference centre. Many of the Spaniards said they preferred it that way, as there were fewer distractions from the main purpose.

But, it's not all work. The place is a sun-trap, there's a good view down the valley, and an even better one if you walk down it a little way; the pointed mountain which came into view reminded me a lot of Scheihallion, in Scotland.

One morning, we walked to El Vallejo. It lies in the next valley to Valdelavilla; not far as the crow flies. But, it's a little too far for humans in the time allowed for a one-to-one'. So, by way of a change, we all went there in a body.

We headed down the valley along a forest track to join the GR86 long-distance footpath. After a short distance, we could see the village above us on the hillside, peeping through the trees.

El Vallejo is another abandoned village, for the same reasons as Valdelavilla was abandoned; it was just too far to bring in the utilities required for a 20th Century lifestyle. But, unlike Valdelavilla, they haven't got around to restoring it yet.

But, although it's overgrown, and some of the tiled roofs fallen in, everything is in surprisingly good condition, although the only recognisable building was the church.

Perhaps its remoteness keeps it that way. Those tiles are hand-made, and the stone hard-won and I'm surprised it didn't get carted away, to reproduce some seaside villa owner's idea of rural Spain.

We returned to Valdelavilla along a mule track over the intervening tongue of land. Along it were the yellow and white markings, which I'd been told, marked an off-road vehicle route. But, having spent a good slice of my adult life driving a Land Rover, I don't think I'd care to drive one along there.

This track gives the best view of Valdelavilla as you approach it. I took some pictures, but thought it would be even better if I was up here first thing in the morning.

And, guess what! I was!

The early morning sun on the mellow stone and tiles is a photographer's delight. But, nevertheless, I don't blame the original villagers for relocating. As my grandmother used to say you can't eat the view!

Learn more about this author, Keith K..
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