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Water & Oceanography

What causes ocean waves

Ocean waves are caused by wind. That seems like a simple answer. The more complex answer is that the wind patterns that occur at different latitudes on the globe give rise to the ebb and flow of the ocean's waves. Each ocean wave is unique, but they are all a form of energy. The Coriolis effect is what drives the wind patterns in each hemisphere, and also plays a role in causing ocean waves.

The physics and mathematics used to describe an ocean wave are essentially the same as those for any other transverse waves. The most interesting aspect of which, is that the energy of the wave is pushed forward, but the water really only moves in a small circle as the wave goes by. This is why a piece of seaweed floating on the water's surface will gently bob up and down, rather than be hurtled towards the shore.

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What causes ocean waves

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What causes ocean waves

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