Great Italian restaurants are, like great art, in the eye of the beholder. And when you say "Italian restaurant" it's like saying "American restaurant;" the terms mean different things to different people. A Texan will have a different view of American food than someone from Maine. For some, Italian food means dishes from Northern Italy, while for others it means food prepared the way it is made in Sicily. Even pizza has this regional distinction. But these differences aside, there are a few common ingredients that go into making a great Italian restaurant.

There are numerous things that make a great Italian restaurant, and each person will have his own idea of what these are, but for me it ultimately comes down to two things: the cheeses and the sauce. A really authentic sauce can overcome a multitude of other culinary sins, but a poor sauce will kill any dish regardless of how good the other ingredients are. Sadly, we have become so desensitized by Ragu and other so-called sauces that we hardly recognize what a good one tastes like anymore. Just know this: no good sauce ever came out of a jar.

With regard to cheeses, the ricotta mix for the calzones, manicotti, and lasagna is the key. You can tell a good ricotta mix right away; you immediately wish you had more of it and less of the pasta. At least that's how I tell. And if you see anything resembling cottage cheese in place of ricotta, flee immediately. This used to be a problem in the south, but has thankfully been corrected for the most part. The hard cheeses (parmesian, for example) should be fresh. Ask the manager if you can see a wheel for yourself. If it's fresh, he'll know what you're talking about.

Another important aspect is atmosphere. It may sound crazy, but when I go into an Italian restaurant I want to hear mandolins and Dean Martin and Connie Francis. It should be dimly lit, but not so dim that you can't read the menu. And there should be either a romantic feel or one of family, depending on the type of restaurant. However, while atmosphere is important, it does not make up for poor food. Great food always overcomes poor atmosphere.

Learn more about this author, Bruno Somerset.
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