by Cynthia Wall

Created on: July 19, 2011

Celebratory feasts are as old as man. Whether to share in the eating from a successful hunting expedition or an extraordinary harvest, people have gathered together to eat and give praise to God and Nature for the bounty of the land and sea. The Hawaiian Luau is a wonderful example of that tradition and since the Hawaiian Islands and ocean surrounding them are fertile with food, the luau is indeed a feast to behold. In history, we learn from Captain Cook’s journals that luaus were held as early as the 1790’s. Sometimes, they were to honor returning warriors and sometimes for individual joys such as a new baby or even a new canoe. 

Today’s luau bears little resemblance to the earliest ones.  Today, for a price of $50 plus, tourists may be seated at picnic tables where they dine on a buffet of pork, chicken, corn on the cob, and fruit and macaroni salad, all served up on paper plates with plastic silverware which blows away in the ocean breezes. At a higher priced luau, a real ukulele band may replace canned music and guests may be invited to learn the hula on stage.  But not even the most elegant of modern luaus measures up to old Hawaii. 

Ever since 1819, when King Kamehameha III sat down with women at a feast, the practice of separating men and women at meals in Hawaii was abolished. It was this abolishment of separation of the sexes and classes of people that gave birth to the luau and which also made King Kamehameha III the most beloved figure in Hawaiian history. When the old name ‘aha ‘aina (gathering + meal) became luau under Kamehameha, more than just the separation of sexes was ended. Before that, women and commoners (those not of royal Hawaiian heritage) were not permitted to eat certain delicacies such as moi (a reef fish) and bananas and pork. Even the King himself was banned from those foods until he instituted the new luau practices. Today, if you attend a luau, you are considered family. 

Early luaus were eaten on the floor but that’s not to say they weren’t formal.  Beautiful lauhala mats were rolled out to frame the centerpiece of native flowers and ferns. Amidst the overpowering scent of native flowers, the meal was served. “Luau,” a dish of chicken, coconut milk, and taro leaves became the namesake of the feast. Also served were dried fish and meats, sweet potatoes, and poi (made from pounded taro root). Food was eaten with the fingers and the number of fingers

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