by Janet Sandford

Created on: March 05, 2011

The road leading southward from the Alentejo to Sagres is a very pretty one passing through old towns such as Odemira, Aljezur and Vila do Bispo. Times haven’t really changed in these towns. Old  men squeezed into jumpers that look a size too small still sit in cafes around the main squares drinking Medronho and playing dominoes. Dogs lie in the middle of the road, sleeping in the midday sun. Sometimes they look like they have been shot and don’t even move when a bus turns a corner. When the road branches off to Sagres the landscape changes slightly – you are able to see more houses, apartments, cafes and the odd hotel. Thankfully, the town hasn’t been too over developed and you can still find a narrow lane leading to the beaches that have wonderful yellow sand, remain quiet and unspoilt.

On this western coast of the Algarve, the scenery is quite different with its wild, secluded surfing beaches which are backed by granite cliffs sometimes flecked with amber and red. A couple of the beaches are reached only by surfers who know the terrain well; long unmade tracks amidst the marshes or through the rocky heath and farmland, sometimes hilly. 
It was here, in Sagres, that Henry the Navigator established his school of seamanship. All that remains is is a small chapel and a gigantic rosa dos venhos or ‘compass card’ carved out of the stone. To reach this historical sight you will have to travel a little way out of the town in a northerly direction but it is definitely worth a stroll as the wind blowing through your hair and around your ears is a wild experience and the views are stunning.

Warm currents give Sagres mild winters, but the constant winds make for chillier summers than in most of this region. The small fishing harbour is colourful with many hand painted boats in colours of red, blue and yellow. It is still a working harbour and each day you will see fishermen bring home their catch which is usually sold to the local restaurants.
In 1755 when the Great Earthquake hit Portugal a lot of the buildings in the main square in Sagres were destroyed. Consequently there aren’ t many points of historical interest. The main square is the heart of the town with a good selection of cafes, restaurants and a good supermarket. If you want to try out a top fish restaurant then I suggest Mar a Vista. This pretty restaurant is set back and above  Praia da Mareta, east of Sagres. The views are fantastic and the décor is kitsch with fishing nets, lobster pots and other fishing paraphernalia. As you might guess the main food on offer is fish and seafood, in traditional dishes or simply cooked. Try the perceves and don’t miss out on the local wine.

On my trips back to the Algarve I generally visit Sagres at least twice during my stay. The town I can take or leave but I do love the sandy beaches especially Praia do Martinhal which is just east of the town. The sand here is soft, golden, very peaceful and there are lots of sand dunes which you can tumble down when playing with the kids or hide behind if you want to sunbathe in peace without an audience.

Sagres isn’t the prettiest town in the western Algarve but because of its location near to Land’s End, Cabo de Sao Vicente (Cape St Vincent), and the historical connection with Henry the Navigator it is definitely worth seeing.

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