by Edward James

Created on: November 17, 2010   Last Updated: November 19, 2010

Modern day DSLR cameras offer a full manual mode, which offers the photographer the greatest level of control over exposure. In fully manual mode, the photographer can choose the combination of any aperture size (lens permitting of course) and shutter speed in order to achieve the desired effects in the final image. In full manual mode, the choice is totally down to the photographer and the camera does not intervene. The camera will give an indication of whether it agrees with the aperture and shutter speed chosen by the photographer to ensure proper exposure, via an exposure dial at the bottom of the screen in the view finder, but that is all. Shooting in full manual mode may seem daunting at first, but once the basics have been learnt many users often find this is the preferred method of shooting. 

When using full manual mode, the first thing to do is to turn the mode dial of the camera to full manual mode. Next off it is important to step back and assess the situation in order to decide whether movement or depth of field is the key factor in the final image. If depth of field is the overriding factor then dial in the desired aperture. Take a meter reading and dial in the shutter speed that puts the needle on the analogue bar in the centre of the range. If movement is the overriding fact then dial in the desired shutter speed. Take a meter reading and dial in the F stop number that puts the needle on the analogue bar in the centre of the range. This will be the starting point. 

The camera is now set so that the subject used to take the meter reading will be rendered a mid tone. If the subject of the photograph is the same tonal value as the subject off which the meter reading was taken, then no further adjustments are necessary and it is a matter of pressing the shutter button and taking the image. 

If the tone of the subject of the photograph is lighter or darker than the tone of the subject from which the meter reading was taken exposure compensation is required. If the subject is lighter, positive exposure compensation is required. If the subject is darker, negative exposure compensation is required. The exact amount of compensation to apply will vary from situation to situation and it is something learned through trial and error and lots of practice. Persevere will ultimately lead to the point where it will become second nature, however during the intervening period it may be worth bracketing each shot, i.e. taking a few copies of the same image at different exposure levels, to ensure perfect exposure. 

Some photographers prefer to take a meter reading off the subject itself, using spot metering. Using this method and then adjusting the shutter speed or aperture to get the needle in the centre of the analogue bar will render the subject a mid tone. If the subject is a mid tone, then it is a case of pressing the shutter button and taking the image. If the subject is lighter or darker than a mid tone then the aperture (if shutter speed is the overriding factor) or shutter speed (if aperture is the overriding factor) needs to be adjusted to move the needle so it shows the desired amount of overexposure or underexposure accordingly. 

The above may appear difficult to grasp but it is possible. There will, of course, be a learning curve that may take weeks, months or even years to overcome but that is the beauty of digital photography. 

Choosing both the aperture and the shutter speed allows the photographer to take the image with intentional under or over exposure for more creative images. It should be remembered that prefect exposure for one photographer may not be for another and it is down to personal preference.

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