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the weather was rather hazy, giving a view of only a few miles.

But, nevertheless, there was much to see closer at hand. Ajloun Castle is promoted as the best-preserved and most complete examples of Arab-Islamic mediaeval architecture in the world. There is a maze of vaulted passages and winding staircases,
dining halls, dormitories and stables.

The water supply was assured by eleven huge water cisterns, important to Muslims, who must pray five times a day, and cannot do so without washing themselves first.

Indeed, in the private quarters of the castle's Commander is a small stone bathtub unheard of in an English castle until comparatively recent times.

And, the quarters had rectangular windows, with an ingenious arrangement to convert them to arrow-slits, should the need arise.

Ajloun stands about 40 miles north of the capital, Amman. Some of the tours to Jerash, the most complete Graeco-Roman city outside Italy, take in Ajloun on the way back. Visitors wishing to make their own way could take a white-painted service taxi from the al-Abdali station but be warned that the car will have to be shared, and will depart only when full.

A regular taxi will cost more, but will still remain reasonably priced, even over long distances indeed, it's the preferred way of getting around Jordan. If a car is hired, head for the Sport City Interchange, and head north-west, past the Jordan University. From there, it is simply a matter of following the brown tourist signs.

With recent events in mind, the Middle East may not seem to be the holiday destination of choice to many people. But, the Middle East consists of many countries. King Abdullah of Jordan is quoted as saying that not visiting his country because of 'troubles in the Middle East' is ' the same as saying if there is a riot in Boston, I shouldn't go to Cincinnati'.

He's quite right. Jordan is indeed a good place for a relaxed, stress-free vacation, and it's hard to believe that the troubled West Bank is just across the river. Almost all the Jordanians we met were polite, friendly and welcoming, and at pains to point out that not all Muslims are hard-line fundamentals.

And, here's the neat thing at the moment, foreigners visiting Jordanian tourist attractions get in for half price.

For a comprehensive list of Jordanian tour operators, please visit at www.see-jordan.com/tour_operat ors.html

Learn more about this author, Keith K..
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