by Rowlandwithaw

Created on: August 14, 2010

“At least he made the trains run on time”, is a compliment often paid to Mussolini, though to me, it’s a bit like claiming that genocide avoids food shortages: Fascism would be a high price to pay for punctuality. My experience after living in Italy for some years is that trains tend to be punctual….. having said that my nearest station is on the main North-South line so maybe that has some impact. However if there is a delay on your train, it will not be compensated by a rescheduling of your connection. Also there can be strikes but they tend to be announced a few days before the event. So, with those few exceptions, travelling by train in Italy is generally an easy and pleasant experience.

The structure of the ticketing system is somewhat complex as there are so many different types of service from the slow Regionale which stops everywhere to the IC (pronounced Inter Chitty) to the Eurostar which will take you from Naples to Ursa Major in air conditioned luxury in less than eight seconds. In short, faster is more expensive, slower is cheaper and a return cost the same as two singles: once you understand that, it all becomes relatively easy – and if you want to check timetables or book online http://www.ferroviedellostato.it/ is an excellent site. If you miss the train you planned to catch, and the next is more expensive, you can either upgrade before boarding or on the train, though the latter involves an additional charge (5 Euros, I think). However, sometimes it’s worth it as queues at the ticket office in, say, Roma Termini can be horrendous – queuing might mean missing the next train as well! Actually whilst on the subject of Roma Termini, check the platform of departure carefully as some Florence bound trains leave from a platform (2a I think) which is about ten minutes walk from the main concourse…..

Once you have your ticket, don’t forget to ‘validate’ it by inserting one end into the little yellow boxes dotted around the station. The ‘convalidare’ has to be within six hours of departure(again the ticket will say) . On the train to Fiumicino Airport, I think it has to be done within one hour of departure, so don’t forget to check. Finally before boarding the train, buy whatever you’re likely to want in terms of drinks and food. Italian trains rarely have buffet cars – occasionally a hand pushed trolley with a bicycle bell will announce the arrival of warm beer and coffee which usually tastes like mud.

If you have booked seats don’t be too surprised if yours are occupied and unless there’s an official nearby, it is a tricky decision  whether to demand your rights or to settle for adjacent seats. Survey the land and decide accordingly. And if this particular prospect fills you with horror then at all costs avoid ‘Le Freche Sud’ – this is the overnight train from Trieste to Naples and it is a nightmare.

All in all train travel in Italy is pretty good, and a relatively cheap and easy way to travel. We live half way between Florence and Rome and visit both frequently but never bother to travel by car.

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