by Erin Blubaugh

Created on: July 30, 2010

Completing a project that is both aesthetically pleasing and durable requirese choosing the right materials, including the correct gauge of wire. At first, choosing the right wire might seem overwhelming, but knowing the general range of wire gauging, or the thickness of  the wire, will make the correct choices very clear.

As a general rule, the higher the gauge, the thinner the wire.  A wire with a gauge of 18 will be much thicker than wire that gauges 28.  Most handmade jewelry can be made from wire that ranges from about 22- to 24-gauge, so keep plenty on hand.

How do you choose wire for your particular project?  If you’re using a pattern (usually found in books, magazines, and online), refer to the wire gauges as closely as possible.  If instead, you’ve thought up your own design idea, consider some basic guidelines.

First, consider what components you want to use in your piece.  If you are using beads, for example, you must make sure that the wire supporting your beads will fit through the bead hole.  Be careful:  not all beads are drilled the same exact size.

Next, think about the role of the wire in your creation.  If it has to support weight, you will need a thicker wire.  For example, if you plan to make your own clasps to close off a necklace or bracelet, you may want to choose 14-, 16- or 18-gauge.  For earring hooks, a 20-gauge wire will be better.  Jumprings, the round or oval rings that connect one component to another, vary depending on the weight of the project.  In general, 20-gauge tends to be a strong size for jumprings. 

Pendants, rings and other components may employ more than one type of wire to give an interesting look.  For the base of pendants, which may need to support wire, beads, or both, try using wire that ranges between 16- and 20-gauge.  To embellish a stable component, find wire that is more delicate and can be wrapped for creative textures.  Wire that ranges from 24- to 36-gauge will provide a nice contrast to the thicker components in your project.

Another very popular use for wire is for wire-wrapping a bead.  If the wire is supporting a bead where tension is involved, like using the bead to link other beads in a bracelet or necklace, reach for a medium gauge (22-24).  However, do yourself a favor and be certain the wire can go through the bead.  For wrapping hanging briolette or teardrop beads, you may want to choose a finer wire for decorative purposes.

More advance techniques, such as wire weaving, crocheting, and knitting, require a 24-gauge or thinner wire.  Again, consider the weight of the beads you want to incorporate into your design.

Wire working  is an incredible way to add complexity or interest to a piece of jewelry, and with practice it is easy to achieve the look you want.  Whether you use flat wire, round wire, or add your own texture, be sure to practice on cheaper copper or silver-coated wire before attempting the design on more expensive products.  Before long you will create stunning, inexpensive jewelry to show off, sell or give as presents.

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