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A visitor's guide to Ripon Cathedral, England

by Nick Ford

Ripon Cathedral in the small North Yorkshire town of the same name is both a Cathedral and a Parish church. Although the site is ancient, a monastic foundation was established here in the 660s, the diocese was not established until 1836. The Anglican diocese of Ripon and Leeds was the first to be established since the time of the Reformation.

The Cathedral Church of St Peter and St Winifrid is modest in comparison with the grand Cathedrals of Canterbury and Winchester, Nevertheless, it is an architectural gem whose façade facing the street close to the town centre is considered to be one of the finest examples of Early English workmanship.

Ripon has a fondness for Saint Wilfrid and celebrate his life with an annual pageant on 29 April. Wilfred became the Bishop of Northumberland and energetically set about to convert North Eastern England to the church of Rome. In his quest he built many churches/ The Anglo Saxon crypts which we can see today at, Hexham and Ripon, were part of his project.

The crypt at Ripon lies under the central tower and is well worth seeing. A long series of subterranean passages lead into a barrel vaulted chamber where the walls are still lined with remnants of Roman plaster. This chamber probably held the Holy relics beneath the High Altar. It is all that remains of the early church of St Wilfrid. That church was destroyed by Edere, the King of Mercia in 860 AD.

The second church which was built on the site was pulled down in 1069.

A third church was made possible in the 1170s following a £1,000 donation by Archbishop Roger of Pont ‘l’Everque. As Ripon enjoyed particularly good relations with the Archbishop fo York the intention was to build a two-thirds scale model of the then York Minster. The project culminated in the church that we see today at Ripon.

The westernmost part of the church resembles that of York which was built a century before. The nave is aisle less. In the East, Roger of Pont ‘l’Everque copied a design he had recently used at York. Scholars think that the plan was to produce a place of pilgrimage for the shine of St Winifred which was placed above the crypt. The magnificent Early English west front, which is best appreciated from the outside, was added by Archbishop Walter in 1220. The twin towers were originally capped with spires. In 1660 when a storm demolished the central spire the western spires were taken away for safety.

Sadly, Ripon cathedral has had its share of fires and disasters. In 1280 the east end collapsed. The disaster gave Archbishop Romanus an opportunity to install the Decorated East Window that we see today. In 1318 the army of Robert the Bruce set the choir stalls alight. The fire delayed building work such that Romanus’ project was not completed until 1354.

In 1450 the central tower collapsed. It was repaired in 1459.

During the reign of Henry VIII the nave was widened and the central tower partially rebuilt.

Apart from the architecture Ripon Cathedral has several other claims to fame. Charles Lutwidge Dodgson, who is better known by his pen name, Lewsi Carroll, grew up in Ripon. His father was a Canon at the Cathedral. His work of Alice Through The Looking Glass is said to have been inspired by carvings in the choir, particularly by a carved seat rest showing a griffin chasing a rabbit down a rabbit hole. An astute visitor cam also find a Cheshire Cat and a Queen of Hearts in the south transept. These were an inspiration by Sir Gilbert Scott to honor Ripon’s famous son.

Ripon Cathedral is an interesting building that is well worth a visit.

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