A sightseeing trip around England should include the small cathedral city of Wells in Somerset. The cathedral of St Andrew’s in this town is one of the finest in England. The adjoining medieval Cathedral precinct is the largest and best preserved in the country and the moated Bishop’s Palace is well worth a visit.
The town lies in a most attractive setting at the foot of the Mendip Hills on the edge of the lowlands known as the Somerset Levels. Here, the local springs has long been held to have special powers. These waters still rise from the Bishop’s Palace garden. On this site the Romans built a shrine to the water gods.
According to legend a Minster church was established at Wells in 705 AD. No evidence of this church remains above ground. The current cathedral was built on an adjacent site and superseded the Minster. However, excavations between 1978 and 1980 found evidence the the site was used as a mortuary chapel in late Roman and Anglo Saxon times. The archaeologists also found evidence of a circular apse from the Minster which continued under the line of the present Cathedral cloister.
The cathedral itself is a magnificent Gothic cathedral which was built in stages between 1180 and 1424. This grandeur arose from a complex power play between Wells and Bath for the seat of the diocese of Bath of Wells and from rivalry with the nearby extremely wealthy Abbey at Glastonbury. Wells was determined to state its authority.
The cathedral west front is astonishing. It is the greatest gallery of medieval sculpture in England. Some 146 enormous statues relate the history of man. The imagery depicts the city of God identified by Augustine of Hippo. On the left, north side, the figures depict the Old Testament. On the right the statues depict the New Testament. The higher reaches depict the end of time and the Resurrection.
The Cathedral Green, which is entered through a medieval gateway known as the paupers gate because of the custom of asking for alms there, is rewarding in itself. This is the place to view the magnificent West front. A walk across the Green leads outside the Chapter House to the Vicars Close. This is a little altered street of 14th century houses.
In 2008 the entrance to the Cathedral was much improved. Rather than use the ancient timber doors of the nave, visitors enter through a new reception centre. This building lies very close to the site of the old Anglo Saxon Minster. It houses a rather good restaurant.
The visitors centre leads through a cloister into the nave. The nave is dominated by a unique set of arches that are named after their appearance. They are the world famous. scissor arches of Wells. These inverted arches were constructed shortly after the construction of the central tower to stop it falling down. Work on the central tower started in 1316.
A steep set of very worn medieval steps leads from the north transept to the astonishing Chapter House. This is the place where the religious canons met to discuss cathedral affairs. Each canon had a special seat within this octagonal room. A spectacular fan vault ceiling rises from a single central column. The effect is light and lofty and the acoustics are superb.
Aside from these grand features, the Cathedral has many other features. There is a medieval astronomical clock which strikes the hour through a pageant of jousting knights. There are exquisite carvings in the nave and transepts. These show various allegories such as a man with tooth ache.
The Bishops Palace, which completes the Cathedral complex, should not be missed. The Palace lies within a walled and moated enclosure. For an entrance fee one can visit the Palace gardens and find the source of the water at Wells. An attractive alternative walk runs along the outside of the moat and gives a good view of the walls.
This report mentions only the highlights. The Cathedral, Bishops Palace and quiet town of Wells are certainly well worth a visit and contain many other curios.